Friday, May 26: Dehra Dun-Gangotri

Dr. Puri woke us up at 3:45. At 4:40 we were given tea and then walked to luxury bus stand. Got there just before 5, but no bus. So shared rickshaw to bus stand at train station for regular bus. The 6:00 bus left 6:30.

After Rishikesh it went up, up, up - until 10:00 when there was a loud noise from the engine and the bus would go no further. After two hours got on luxury bus instead. Much faster and nicer, so got on a jeep from Uttarkash. At times we got a few great mountain glimpses from jeep as it climbed.

Gangotri

LOTS of vehicles parked at Gangotri, we had to walk the last portion. Hard to find hotel room and they were very expensive. Paid Rs. 250 for Rs. 80-100 worth. Used the new sweat cloths - not too cold outside.

Saturday, May 27: Gangotri-Bhojbasa

Beautiful clear morning. Very interesting town (and many beggars). Warmed up quickly as we started trekking. Many Indians, especially in the beginning. Also many ponies, there were porters, guides, etc. Indian style trekking. Beautiful snow peaks gradually came into view.

Got to Bhojbasha 2:45. Went to Ashram and got a room with food against donation. As we moved in, the room was very small and had to be shared with two more. Very dark, no light, cave-like. So checked into hotel with dorm beds instead. Would not get our money back. But had good dinner at ashram.

Clouds moved in later and it got very cold (3800 meter above sea level). But thick blankets made it warmer in bead.

Sunday, May 28: Bhojbasa-Gaumok-Gangotri

Sun early, but only high in the mountains. Beautiful mountains - and cold. Left at 7 and got sun about an hour later, and it warmed up nicely. Lots of ponies with Indians, but at Gaumok they had to get off and walk to where Ganga flowed out of the Gangotri glacier (4000 meters above sea level). Very rough walking, full of rock. We only went a little bit, our shoes weren't made for this terrain.

Then hiked all the way out (23 kilometers). Got a seizure at about 3700 meters high. Met lots of ponies with Indians, but not very many walked at all. Ran into Mark and Fabian, who were going to do the trek tomorrow. German/Liezenstein couple showed us to pleasant hotel room at Ganga, where we got hot water for showers.

Monday, May 29: Gangotri-Dehra Dun

Left with 7:00 bus, had time for dosa first (good dosa and sambar but not chutney). Bus to Uttarkashi took five hours through very windy road.

At lunch nice English teacher spoke to us and helped us get bus reservation for Dehra Dun. Then suddenly Mr. Puri showed up. He was going on a 15-20 day mountain expedition just North of Uttarkashi.

Dehra Dun

Road back was incredible, very steeply terraced with river far below. Only some of the terraces were in use at the time. Got back 8:15 and had good diner later. Could not check email, they said server down.

Tuesday, May 30: Dehra Dun

Washed cloths (Surain). Read email until connection more or less died. In the afternoon walked to travel agent and bought plain tickets from Srinagar to Leh. Incredible! Uploaded pictures to there computer. Surain went shopping with the family later while I used their computer and worked on the next story. Great dinner again.

Wednesday, May 31: Dehra Dun-Shimla

Up 4:45 and left 5:20 for bus stand. Had rained during night and it was wet outside. Bus left 6:00 am. Nine hour journey, after a couple o hours constant hairpin turns.

Himachal Pradesh State

Shimla

Arrived 3:00 pm and porters helped us from bus to ridge high above. Got nice hotel room for Rs. 350 (wanted 400). Strolled around and found email place. Great connection! Tattie responded to an "all" message about letters 5, 6, and 7. We engaged n a conversation together and decided to try again next day same time. We had my birthday dinner today with vegetarian tandoori etc. Very good food. Sun set about 7:15.

Thursay, June 1: Shimla

Walked around the bazaar in the morning and spent some time with scouts. Tried spicy "golgapa". Did email with Richard and Rutger, but Gösta och Viveka were not out at Sandhamn. So got the hotel phone number, called them and gave it to them. After dinner they called us, but they could barely hear me (I could hear them fine).

Friday, June 2: Shimla-night bus

Bought bus tickets for night bus ticket. Strolled bazaar again and red (I finished the book!). Talked in late afternoon with couple from Singapore, and then had dinner with them.

The "Super Delux" bus left 9:40 pm. There was a very drunk man in there for 20 minutes.

Dharamshala

Saturday, June 3: on bus-Dharamshala

Hard to sleep in many twists and turns, but I must have slept, since I banged my head many times. Arrived around seven and then took 7:30 bus up to McLeod Gange. At the hotel we were told that the Dalai Lama would have an audience today!

We walked there, got in line with out passports (tourists went ahead of Indians) and an hour later we had shaken his hand. Incredible!

Lots of monkeys on the driveway up to McLeao Gang. Driver stopped to feed them. Many westerners, about 2/3 women. Walked around a bit (too many cars), had my leather bag repaired. Walked around tgown, asked a tailor to sow me a shirt. Not so cold in the evening (1,800 meters).

Sunday, June 4: Dharamashala

Big thunderstorm at night and raining in the morning. Eventually stopped after breakfast. Surain funny in stomach at lunch, so stayed home in afternoon, writing postcards. Great Indian dinner, played cards.

Monday, June 5: Dharamshala

After breakfast walked down to the Tibetan refuge government for a lecture 9:00. After singing, the lecture was about everything's emptiness: If it cannot exist alone, it is empty by itself. A second lecture at 11:00 discussed rebirth and how to obtain better rebirth by living a good life (like I had learned in school). Waked back up steep hill for lunch next to hotel. Had Indian dinner again with Petra only and checked email. About 70 people in class - half westerners.

[Not a Rimpoche. Geshel = advanced teacher]

[Rimpoche = reincarnated lama]

Tuesday, June 6: Dharamshala

Müsli breakfast and walked down to ledure(?).

Gheshela (about 80 people) [advanced teacher]:

• Dilution our worst enemy and course of suffering
• Common enemy only in this lifetime
• Dilution future life as well. Once destroyed does not come back
• As long as we are under controll of dilution we have to go through rebirth
• Mental Karma=mind
• Intended Karma=body.

Decided later with Ester (Italian) and Indian. Since I did not have my passport, I had to "run" back to hotel and down gain to get it (19+15 minutes).

Rinpoche Genrucje (90-100 people) [Rinpoche = reincarnated lama]:

• Practice of patience
• Should be compassionate, since in close relationship with past, guaranteed by impermanence
• All living beings suffer. Three kinds of suffering (1) change (that can be mistaken for pleasure
• All living beings are our mothers and loved ones - Main course and cooperation course
• Every body needs discipline and patience
• Anger is only course of harm and is a chief enemy.

Then took taxi with Ester from Italy and Indian to be blessed by Karmapa, fourteen year old who escaped from Tibet end of last year and is the leader of the four different sects of Bhuddism. We were a bit disappointed, since he seemed to bless mechanically ignoring the person. But Ester was moved (her sect). He will move to Rumtek. Then he gave speech but sounded much harsher in language than Rimpoche. Ester said he was from the Kam sect in Tibet closer to China.

Went to he institute for Handicraft. Beautiful setting (built by Japanse). Had Tibetan dinner at government resthouse.

Wednesday, June 7: Dharamshala (hike)

Rained some during night. I took off around 6:30. Had breakfast at Dharamkot at 6:55 (corn-flakes). Let at 7:10 and reached tea stall #2 at 7:35, left 7:40 and reached #3 at 8:25. Started seeing clouds below me but still nice view, though mountains not visible below he high hills. Reached #4 (blue tarp and British guy) at 8:50 and now it was really socked in.

He told me it would be another 40 minutes and I wouldn't see anything today. Without warm cloths started down 8:55 and took the Bhagsu trail at 9:40 - steep, rocky, and hard to find. Reached Bhagsu at 10:27. Had stuffed parata and chai and then walked to waterfall. Liked it - not full of Indians, just five people there.

I had arrived in a hairy spot, and an Indian pulled me up from it so did not have to do it again.

Read in the afternoon. Had Mexican food in the afternoon (burrito) at American-run restaurant. Started raining in the evening.

Thursday, June 8: Dharamshala

Rained until 5:20 in the morning. Dense fog in the morning. "Chinese curry".

Geshel (about 65 people):

• if a person has positive thinking in dying, he will have no problems in dying and in death;
• but negative thinking, he will suffer in dying and in death
• unpleasant objects will make him suffer will make him suffer intensely - will mostly be afraid of attachments and desires
• settled state = intermediate state = "bardo" state
• this state has died but not yet entered rebirth, that full sense of qualities
• will enter birth at this time, but may take up to a week. If unsuccessful, may try up to seven times to enter body. After 49 days, "bardo" state will dye
• enter into mother's womb at copulation
• it is not essential to have exact features, just general human-like
• all present courses depart on previous courses; all future courses depart on present courses
• action performed by mind most important. Good attitude causes "bardo" to look for good rebirth. Mind, body, spirit

Rinpoche Genrucje (full classroom, about 100 people):

• getting angry due to wrongdoing against the heart of Buddhas teaching
• the angrier we get, the worse the situation
• but if free from anger, no problem. Anger causes bad rebirth
• words spoken by others can not harm our mind, since our mind has no form. Nor can weapons harm it
• better to let life die early than to get what we want through wrongdoing
• try to overcome attachments to rewards and respect
• if no attachments to rewards, we won't get angry (no unhappiness)
• Mahayana = great vehicle help others obtain happiness. Lasting happiness for all living beings (complete enlightenment)
• not liking other people's happiness is totally contradictory to Mahayana

Had South Indian breakfast near hotel. Donated some cloths to the "lepards" (?), mailed 13 rolls and some cloths home. Had nice Indian goodbye dinner with Joan and Petra.

Friday, June 9: Dharamshala-Jammu

Took bus to Dharamshala after final "special müsli" with Joan and Petra. Bus to Patankot was not as zig-zag as it had been in the past days. Beautiful morning, but clouds started moving in. From Patankot very straight road and hardly any villages in beginning (very near Pakistani border).

Jammu and Kashmir State

Jammu

People wanted our business in Jammu, and we signed for a houseboat for the next day (350 Rs.). The hotel was fairly clean, but so-so. Nice people. Had some problems finding Internet. Had small dinner near hotel - great and spicier we had had. Had to wait until 9 for power before we wanted to go back to room (hot).

Saturday, June 10: Jammu-Srinagar

Hamid picked us up and took us to bus. Drizled a bit, and also rained in the bus. Climbed to about 2000 meters at a pass, and then down to low river. Stopped raining. Road was much better than other mountain areas and not so curvy, but trucks everywhere. And huge military presence. Cloudy. After lunch road climbed and climbed and climbed to a tunnel (10,000 feet?).

On the other side we were in Kashmir. Road descended to fairly level area. Lots of terracing with rice paddies and reminded me of Bali. Beautiful. Finally reached Srinagar as the sun came out.

Srinagar

Javeed (another son) picked us up. Incredible ride in shgara out to their houseboat Good Faith. Houseboats everywhere, very different from Seattle. But Good faith fit for royal people (6 people in two bedrooms). Tea when we arrived and later sumptuous dinner. Kashmiri tea with cardamom needed sugar.

Sunday, June 11: Srinagar

Beautiful sunny day all day and much warmer than Dharamshala despite same altitude. Showered and was then served breakfast (Kashmiri bread and omelet). Signed up for six more days. Borrowed their little shgara and paddled for an hour or more. Then looked at carpets, had lunch (good Indian), phoned Tattie, when to email. Nasir came and we chatted with him for a while, agreed to meet the next day. Walked back looking at houseboats and great views with cloudy mountains (but saw a few distant, hazy glaciers). Were approached by many salesmen and shgara paddlers. One place wanted Rs. 150 for 1 gram of Saffron, but we bought 10 grams for 200.

Took a shgara back to houseboat. The family is Golam, the father, Shona, Hamid, who met us in Jammu, Javeed, who met us in Srinagar, and the mother and cook. Good dinner, but similar to yesterday. Lots of shgaras came by in the evening. Dark at 8. Power turned of early in the middle of crapet game.

Monday, June 12: Srinagar [strike]

Same breakfast, but earlier. Strike is on today, and Nasir didn't call. With everything closed we don't go to town today. But take the shgara in to town for 1½ hours or so. Came back some other canals - there seems to be lots of them. Don't do much today - try to hide from heat, read, talk to vendors (and buy some). Dinner is early again and same as yesterday (except the rice). Pre-cooked. Power out during crapet game at 10:30 - this is getting a bit irritating. Hot sunny all day.

Tuesday, June 13: Srinagar [shgara-trek]

Hot sunny again. And again breakfast with eggs and boring bread - quite boring and about the worst we have had in India. The shara man comes at 8:40 so we can take off. Paddles out to lake like we did first day and then continues to the second lake to Mugal Gardens.

These are disappointing, we had expected much more, though there are obviously people working there. Have some vadas for lunch. Then are served great tea and some good (but a bit stale) bread. Are taken through wonderful gardens - floating! Tomato, squash etc.

The way back to Srinagar is through Venice-like settings with canals everywhere and dirty water. Hindu homes are pointed out - some burnt by militants, but most of them just abandoned about ten years ago.

Left sheet for he tailor (paddled there by shgara). After dinner told the family we wanted to move to another houseboat and complained about the food. Nice evening, sitting our and chatting with Javeed, but the others stayed away.

Wednesday, June 14: Srinagar [Nasir]

Showered in the morning and got curd with corn flakes. Great! Went to town for bank at 10, but they could not exchange before 11:30 (new bank rate). And could not get through on email. Met Nasir at 11:00 in his car. Changed money in town.

Most things closed after the deadly shooting (he said that a shopkeeper had been killed by a militant - not uncommon). Then he took us to beautiful 14^th century mosque (we could not go in) and another big mosque.

Then to his home (where most people were going to a weding). Chatted, had great tea, cookies; the he drove us back to town. Did some shopping and then managed to download pictures from camera (took 2¼ hours with download and PhotoShop).

The tailor came by after dinner, he had done a great job on the sleeping sheet.

Thursday, June 15: Srinagar-"new" houseboat

Up 4:45 and took their big shgara to the vegetable market. Lots of shgaras with vegetables and a little meat there - very colorful. One person fell in to the water. Curd and corn flakes for breakfast and Kashmiri bread.

Then went with Hamid to small houseboat near town. Much more rustic, nice people. Very houseboat-like (no water in houseboat). Then looked at carpets for quite a while and had two favorites. After lunch with Hamid we did computer stuff for 4 hours! Uploaded #8 and #9.

Both a pond heron and a Malakite kingfisher were very near. Dinner at 8, very good and spicy. A bit hard to sleep due to Muslim festival.

Friday, June 16: Srinagar

Curd and banana to breakfast. Reached "good" email place 9:45. Waited to 10, but no connection could be established. So went to market and did some shopping. Still no email. Went to carpet place and bought $550 carpet for $410. Went to email place. Still no connection, but downloaded the rest of the pictures. Post office closed today, and so was the tailor. Still no luck with email, so back to houseboat. Red etc. Showered. Great spicy dinner at 8 pm.

Saturday, June 17: Srinagar

Went to near email place at 8:50, but no connection. So to bus stand, but tourist office not open. Still no email luck. So out to tailor and Good Faith. Got the sari sheet and then back to the post office.

Still no email, so back to houseboat. More westerners had arrived there, five of them. Relaxed and the took a shgara and paddled around for an hour. Very hot day again. Again great (spicy) dinner. Moon came up just under hill temple - beautiful watching. Several people say that people are killed every day by soldiers.

Saturday, June 18: Srinagar-Leh

Were awaken at 5 (had set alarm at 5:45). But got Kashmiri bread and banana and curd and the man paddled (well, I did most of the paddling) to road and rickshaw to bus stand.

Had to wait one hour for bus, wrote postcards. Lots of security checks at airport, had to take batteries out of camera and I almost had to check all hard-carried luggage. Left on time.

Leh

Incredible flight really close to very high snowy peaks and glacers. Sunny and hot (23C) [in Leh]. Found Rainbow hotel. Joan and Petra had left a day ago. Leh was incredible with gompas, palace, mountains, etc. Hot day! Walked around Leh in afternoon and spent later afternoon and evening at hotel with several nice travelers.

Monday, June 19: Leh [Palace]

A few clouds. Walked up to Palace in the morning and visited four gompas. Could clearly hear demonstrations against Pakistan and see them. City closed off until 2 p.m. Walked around town and had dinner at hotel. Chatted with Mark and Desiree and others.

Tuesday, June 20: Leh-Hemis-Thiksey-Stok-Leh

Had curd and had bought bananas, corn flakes and almonds for breakfast. Signed up for permits to Nubra valley and then went on jeep with Mark and Desiree.

First to Hemis. Across Indus river and fairly long climb up to monastery. Very impressive and good views to river way down. Then back to Thiksey, which was lunch closed, but they let us into the large Budha. Long climb up to Stok, which had exquisite thankas in the old palace.

Rented boots, got me an umbrella, and again had good dinner at yesterday's restaurant. Went to video show - quite depressing to see what was happening to the Tibetan culture, which now was infected by western money and ideas and seemed dying out.

Wednesday, June 21: Leh [strike]

Washed clothes. Strike and everything closed. Then walked up to Shanti Stupa. Both lunch and dinner at hotel. Walked down to bus stand at 2, but man said that tickets could be bought 5:00 a.m. next morning. Everything closed and nobody was allowed to drive. To be early.

Thursday, June 22: Leh-Nubra valley: Sunor

Up 4:25 and at bus stand 5:08. Got last 2 of 3 seats. Bus left punctually at 6, went down to bus station, then stopped for at least 15 minutes (driver's breakfast?), stopped several more times and finallu left Leh at 7:00.

Slow grinding up the pass with one breakdown and 3 permits and passport checks. Reached pass at 18,380 feet (Torong La was "only" 17,771 feet) and suddenly we had a new altitude record. But no as cold, and not nearly as spectacular. Short break with free tea.

Nubra Valley

Then down, down, down. Close to river it reminded me of Kaligandaki side of Nepal hike. Stopped at Khalsa for lunch and then at bridge. Where we got off. Really liked the desert-like scenery. Started walking, but only got five minutes to bridge, when a military truck stopped and gave us a ride to Sunor.

Found a nice guest house and had tea. It was now high clouds. Driver was from Nepal (one of 50,000). One hour hike up to gompa. Young man spoke good English (teacher for 60 monks). There were 80 monks there. Beautiful gompa with great views. [We were] Only foreigner in Sunor. 10,500 feet high at Sunor.

Friday, June 23: Nubra Valley: Sunor-Diskit

Chilly morning with only a little sun. Most mountains cloudy. Walked down to river. Northeast of us was Kara Khorum in dark clouds. Then walked south, windy and some sun. Very windy sandy after Sunor. After 3 km in next village we got a ride with military truck. Got off after 8 km when it broke down and walked past bridge to intersection, waited for a ride (4½ km).

Almost looked like rain but also some mountains visible. Jeep picked us up, had to walk the last 2 km to Diskit. Got hotel room without bath but OK and cheep (100 Rs.). 10,480 feet. No water (except bulekot?)! Walked to gompa in afternoon - commanding view with striking hillside and many snowy peaks. Could see Sunor gompa from top.

Saturday, June 24: Nubra Valley: Diskit-Hundur-Diskit

Surain still funny in stomach and had no breakfast. I had tea and chapati and butter and jam. Warmer today and not as windy, quite sunny. Walked to Hundur (7 kilometers). Did not see any camels (though a Swiss guy said he saw about 20). Sand dunes. It was not easy to find an entrance to Hundur, so we walked another 2 kilometers.

Two nice women gave us tea and Tibetan bread and Ladakhi tea (same as Tibetan - with butter and salt). But it tasted good to dip the bread into it - not so good to drink.

As we finally found the way to the main road across a bridge, a military man asked where we had been - off limits for tourists!

Bus back to Diskit. Nothing open, so no lunch. Read in afternoon.

Sunday, June 25: Nubra Valley-Leh

Confusions about buses, but go on fast minibus in Diskit at 5:25 with good seats. It took 5½ rather than 8½ hours. Very clean and spectacular views. Saw high mountains in the Karakoram range. Back 11 a.m. Had lunch at hotel and did laundry. Joan and Petra arrived in afternoon. Did some shopping and had good Indian dinner.

Monday, June 26: Leh

Sunny and warm. Did not do much - down to town a few times, too many people to exchange money, talked to others, etc. So-so Indian dinner at other restaurant. Our bus turned out not to go tomorrow, so bought tickets for Wednesday.

Tuesday, June 27: Leh

Took jeep with Joan and Petra to Spitu monastery (sesu) and Phyang. Great location and views (long steep road led there) and nice place. Took part in part of Puja. Then changed money (Surain) and had lunch (Robert). In afternoon visited The Women's Alliance of Ladakh. Very nice people, got some information. Good Indian dinner with Joan and Petra.

Wednesday, June 28: Leh-Tent Camp

Got up 4:30 to reach State Bank of India at 5. 5:30 bus left about 6:00 (the bus from Leh to Manali). Friends had told us that we had to take the two-day bus trip from Leh to Manali because of the stunning beauty, we "simply were not allowed to fly".

This road crosses the Himalayas n five high passes, from the foothills at Manali to Leh. It is closed from later October to June or July, depending on the snow cover.

Travelers who had actually taken the bus gave us horror reports instead, "It took five days. The army was clearing the snow and stopped traffic for three days. We had to wait [three days] in a tent camp.", "We had a breakdown at the top of a pass and had to spend the night there in freezing cold weather", "The driver did not stop for the night but kept on driving for 25 hours".

Several people had altitude sickness and had terrible headaches. Well, we were acclimatized now, so we should at least not face THAT problem.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Friday, June 30: Manali-night bus to Chandigarh

It rained when I woke up at 5:30 and it rained for six hours. A fairly light rain with no wind and umbrellas protected us. Gave hotel some laundry and did email. Connection not too bad. Bought more Doxy Cyclin (malaria tables for me) but could not find for Surain nor Warfarine. Mailed packet home with 8 films. Did off-line computer in afternoon.

Had 2 samosas for dinner and then got on bus to Chandigarh. Nice seats and could squeeze in packs on top shelf. So different from Leh bus! Fast and fairly smooth road. The area seemed full of tourist activities (some of the best hotels we had seen in India)! But it was almost impossible for me to sleep, not enough leg room.

Saturday, July 1: on bus-Chandigarh-night train to Delhi

Three o'clock we all had to get out and then board a similar bus - which had broken glass when Surain sat down. Difficult to move packs over from top shelves, but we managed. A bit more leg room and I think I may have slept a bit.

Chandigarh

Arrived before 6 near bus stand. Left packs in cloak room and had breakfast. Train booking office opened 8, and after short wait we got sleepers to Bikaner. Then did about 4 hours of Internet work at nice computer place, where we managed to download pictures and had pretty good connection. Looked at our web-site.

Had Kashmiri lunch at very fancy Kashmiri restaurant across the street (and very spicy). Walked back to bus stand. Found warfarine and bought me 500 5 mg tablets and 300 1 mg tablets. But no malaria tables for Surain. There was a very nice clinic there, so they did an INR test for me. It was a bit high (3.71) and the doctor there definitely thought so. And they wondered why we took malaaria tablets as prophylactic - contains so much drugs.

Then took cycle rickshaw to Rock Gardens, which we liked a lot. After an hour there we did one more hour of email and rickshaw (auto rickshaw) to train station - it was a long bit away.

Yes, Chandigarh is much cleaner than most cities in India. But not as clean as Gangtok! Had simple dinner at train station and waited for our 10 p.m. train. It never came. It turned out there had been a track problem at the next station, so the train left from there. But too late to get there now. So got train ticket refunded and bought ticket for 1 a.m. Delhi train.

Sunday, July 2: on train-Delhi-Jaipur

Train left 1:20 and we shared seats with bunch of Indians. When conductor arrived about an hour later we could by sleepers at same place and I slept a bit. Arrived Delhi 6:30 in the morning. Rickshaw

Uttar Pradesh State

Delhi

1. to Jaipur bus stand. But train seemed better, so did not by a ticket. Rickshaw would not take us to Jaipur train station, so took another one
2. It had a break-down. So
3. took us to rain station. But train only on Saturdays!
4. Back to bus stand. But, but out of gas.
5. took us there and bought expensive tickets on luxury bus to Jainpur.

Long wait there and other place before bus left 1½ hours later, at 9:30. But ride was fine, until they started taking up standing passengers.

Rajasthan State

Jaipur

Got nice hotel in Jaipur and showered and took a wet cloth, which had started to rot. Walked out at 5, but deluge stopped us and umbrells did not help much. Checked email and had nice dinner nearby.

Monday, July 3: Jaipur

Müsli breakfast at hotel. Then walked to central fort, a little rickshaw at end. Rs. 130 to enter! OK fort, but forts are not my favorite. Several stores inside. Spent time in one and finally bought a "Suite" for Surain and two saris (for sleep sheets). OK lunch and then back to another email place, where I worked on story #11 (Ladakh) for almost two hours. Power went and it started to rain. Tried to run home, but the deluge stopped me. Was quite wet by the time I got home. Again dinner at same place, excellent, especially the huge lassis.

Tuesday, July 4: Jaipur [Surain's birthday]

Surain funny stomach. I went to train station by myself and got 3 tickets. Müsli for breakfast again (idli place too slow).

Rickshaw to observatory (great and interesting, but hot. Quite impressive) and Hawa Mahal. Same guy as yesterday drove us around for an hour. Then we walked up to impressive fort in very hot climb uphill, 25 minutes. Rickshaw back (no sleep sheet was done). More off-line email. No rain today, but very humid. Same great restaurant and lassi. Really stuffed after dinner.

Wednesday, July 5: Jaiput-night train to Jodhpur

Went with rickshaw driver to mausoleum of man who had 46 concubines and 146 children (only one daughter). Then to Amber fort. Hot but not too long walk uphill (elephant rides available). Rs. 50 entrance. Very well preserved. Stopped at lake palace (from distance) and on gem manufacturer on way back.

Dosa for lunch, quite good and great real juice for 10. Did lots of off-line work in the afternoon at woman's place and send off Ladakh stay (#11). Dinner at hotel. Train left punctually at 11:30 and I went to sleep immediately.

Jodhpur

Thursday, July 6: on train-Jodhpur

Slept almost all night. Rickshaw took us to small hotel Fort View hotel - simple but nice people. Very hot already early in the morning.

Managed to get through by phone to the PPI link. They picked us up in jeep about 10 and drove us to their home and GVVC head quarters with about 10 people working there with 4-5 computers in use. Mr. Tyagi gave us a 1+ hour seminar on water conservation. Then good lunch. Rested 1½ hours - it was very hot.

Then another man took us to their hospital construction. About 4:20 - very hot - he said about 40. It had rained but little in Jodhpur. We drove 60 km west of Jodhpur along railroad and there were 7 people in jeep with us. Jodhpur is on the edge of the Thar desert and there were cactus along the way. We saw large ponds and where they piped water from the Himalayas - actually from Punjab and Hariyana. But not a work of GVVC. The man is a civil engineer. Showed us all the sandstone quarry - Mr. Ansari - saw also quite a few nice homes built in sandstone - very attractive. So we drove out to the hospital construction, about a month from finish.

Very impressive. This would be a first hospital in the area. Self-sustained except that poor people would not have to pay. We then waited another hour or two while they worked. Children discovered us soon and we took lots of pictures and walked around with them, being introduced to some of the parents.

It was already getting dark and cooler when we continued to their (major) center another 20 or so minutes away. The way from the road was being consumed by sand dunes and some homes had been abandoned . They had planted trees about 5-6 years ago to stop gthe sand drifts. It was basically dark when we reached the cneter, but were shown around it. Some 20 people worked there, including 4 teachers (students would show up when they had time). There was a dispensary, etc. Were served good dinner around 9 and left 9:50 (after a flat tire was replaced). The drive went quite fast, but still weren't home until 11:00. Room was hot not unbearable.

Friday, July 7: Jodhpur-night train

Woke up 6. There were some clouds, so the morning was not as hot (though still humid). Two British women had arrived, also with the Handbook, so we chatted with them for a while. Walked to market and bought two lungis and one dhoti and had the seams sown.

A rickshaw to Tyagi's at 1:00. Lunch after some wait and met the son, who had studied to become a doctor in Tashkent form 7 years (first year to learn Russian). Then "relax". Took a walk at 5 and found camels to photograph. Were invited to a short ride. Then he wanted Rs. 150->80. We offered 20, which he did not take. Invited to tea by giggling girls and several mothers in beautiful clothing.

Got dinner at 9:30 (!) and then taken to train at 10:00. Shashi was coming back the same night. Noisy Indians in beginning.

Jaisalmer

Saturday, July 8: on train-Jaisalmer

Slept pretty well. Arrived 5:30 on schedule with sand all over train. Man met with jeep and took us to very clean, nice, and new hotel. Very good value at Rs. 150. Surain slept a bit while I walked around.

Then we walked together up to fort with all its "bastions". Small boy showed us around on the scaffolding and and we walked into nice Jain temple (but took no pictures at Rs. 50). Saw the 8-story house ("haveli") of the old prime minister just under the Maharaja - quite impressive. Then back to hotel for lunch (pakora - they did not have much more for lunch) and siesta after that.

Took another walk up to town around 5. Surain ordered two blouses sown and I almost ordered a Kurta, but decided to buy a read-made in Delhi. It was getting dark so hurried back to hotel for Indian dinner. We appreciated it for so little fat, but certainly not as nice as the meals we had in Jaipur. Also drank a beer with it. The night was hot.

Sunday, July 9: Jaisalmer-night train

Again relatively cool morning. Walked up to tailor to discuss possible sleeping sheets. We found excellent mango juice in the market and took pictures with my dhoit (which seemed quite appreciated). Got lost of the way back to the tailor, but saw many beautiful buildings on the way.

The tailor had been to much in a haste, screwed up one buttonhole. Had a "mirch" samosa (made with green chilly) on the way back to hotel.

Then jeep out to

1. old mausoleum - quite nice and again built in sandstone, looking almost like the desert
2. Jain temple - camera Rs. 50 - ornate but only Mahavira-sculpture. There was a large pond there - more like a lake - due to recent rainfall. Surprise there was so much water still
3. his "village" - just a few home and got tea
4. small village, they wanted money for photography
5. second small village
6. large village. I did not find any of these villages very interesting, but wondered why they lived out in the desert with their cows and a few camels. Was there anything for the cows to graze?

Then went to the sand dunes (National Park) with a few tourists and many camel drivers. So we got on one together and rode out to sunset point. Not a wonder of comfort, but still not too bad. There were several interesting beetles. And not so small. Disappointing sunset.

So 40 km back to hotel for dinner and transport to train station. Train not too crowded.

Jodhpur

Monday, July 10: on train-Jodhpur

Slept fitfully but still most of the time. Arrived 4:45 when it was still dark. Had tea and waited an hour. Found out about trains and luxury bus to Mount Abu and then took rickshaw to Tyagi's.

Showered and morning prayer at 9, which was extended with discussion with the people at the meeting. Breakfast (similar to lunch food) and at 10:50 3½ hours to their center. Got tea and desert lunch - quite good. Finally got to taste millet chapati. Taste was OK, but it was very heavy. Found it hard to eat 2. Quite spicy, even Mrs. Tyagi (Shashi), who was with us, sweating. Short rest, and then we saw drawings of the farm we were going to, and took of with three men and one woman to the farm.

We first saw a Khadin, or fairly large vegetable patch linked to a "bunt", which still had quite a bit of water from recent rain. The farmer saw us and came and took pictures. Then drove with him short distance to his house and saw w/ tank (half full of water) and his home in neat order. Surprised how cool it was inside.

Then drove to other area, probably a village center, where ~15 women and girls were singing for us. They were all veiled, but later on most of the veils were removed. In the question and answer section they started getting excited about possible more contributions from PPI. Took lots of pictures. This was so 100% different from what we had seen yesterday, in the "tourist" villages. Definitely a highlight during this trip.

Then went to the men' meeting (they had a room, the women did not). They were very happy to see us (it had been ~10 years since anybody from PPI had been there). Shook all their hands and we had to leave for the long driver home. Got back 9:30 and had still no room for dinner.

Saw small deer across the road and many peacocks.

Tuesday, July 11: Jodhpur-Abu Road-Mount Abu

Slow morning, got tea, red. Breakfast was late (10 am). Then took bus to Internet site. Back for lunch at 2 and got jeep ride to train station. 3:30 train to Abu Road at 8:30. Immediately got into jeep for steep climb up to Mount Abu, where we got about 9:30.

Mount Abu

And then short jeep ride to hotel. Lots of activity up here, nice hotel.

Wednesday, July 12: Mount Abu

Noisy morning. Paratha breakfast and bought ticket to Udaipur for tomorrow. About 11 we took shared jeep to temple area. First visited wild life sanctuary, which was Rs. 40 for foreigners and Rs.5 for others. Nobody else there. Saw no animals, not even the 2 resident crocodiles, but the walk was pretty an view from outlook great. Sky looked a bit threatening, but no rain.

Dilwara Jain temple very ornate and well carved inside with many Mahavira statues at all prominent locations with other Hindu gods less prominent displayed.

Back to town and dosa lunch and good lassi. Wrote postcards back at hotel but got interrupted by nice Indians, five medical students in Jodhpur (three from Punjab). Walked with them to lake. Took pictures. Little rain, stopped. Then sky looked really threatening and just as we left them, the rain started, soon hard, so we took protection. 20 minutes or so it eased slightly, so Surain went for it (I had my umbrella, so it wasn't too bad). Still rained a bit as we went with them for Punjabi food (good).

Thursday, July 13: Mount Abu-Udaipur

Up 7:15. Cloudy and dense fog. About 9 it started to rain. Still rained a bit as we went to post office about 10:20. Then walked around lake in dense fog, but the rain had stopped. The lake was noticeably higher today.

Udaipur

Took the bus to Udaipur at 3, it left 3:30. Fog disappeared, but it drizzled a bit. Pretty ride most of the time with hardly any villages en route. Lots of forest and even saw a few rivers with a little bit of water in them. Found a cheep hotel with a great view just before 10. Went out for small bite. Looked like an interesting place.

Friday, July 14: Udaipur

Hard to fall asleep. Had rained, but stopped when we got up. At 10 or so we strolled around down to the lake, just as it started to drizzle. Had lunch at same place as yesterday. I went to train station to buy tickets. Then we had tea with owner. Walked around a bit, got lost, and were invited to tea. Then did off-line computer work - catastrophe. One floppy could note be copied. But I eventually recovered most of the files. Dinner at roof top restaurant with tremendous view over temple.

Saturday, July 15: Udaipur

It had rained during night, and clouds were dark and menacing. So, got our curd and bananas and papaya breakfast in room. I strolled around by myself, eventually ending up at palace. Lunch at new restaurant (dal fry and stuffed tomato - great). We both walked to palace area but did not enter. I did 2½ hours off-line, and Surain wrote Rajasthan story. Read a bit. No rain! Dinner at yet another place and watched the Octopus James Bond movie, filmed partly in Udaipur. Fastest rickshaw I had ever seen!

Sunday, July 16: Udaipur-night train to Jaipur

Walked in the morning to sunset point. Great view from the top over Udaipur and lakes. Had my red bag repaired (new zipper). Had lunch on the way back and then looked at puppets and welcome hangings. After long looking and discussion we eventually bought one of each for Rs. 1400 with visa (they wanted 2000 plus 450).

Then it was time for quick shower and go to the train station. Train was punctual 4:20 p.m. and not very crowded. We read and later played crappete with two Indians looking on (they had played cards earlier, which got us started). A little harder bed and a little tighter in meter gage.

Jaipur

Monday, July 17: on train-Jaipur-Bharatpur

Slept pretty well. Arrived 6 am. Took rickshaw to private bus stand (very near) and bought tickets on luxury bus at 2. Same rickshaw back to train station, where we left our luggage. Weighed ourselves - I was still 62 kilo. Had tea and then cycle rickshaw (2) to restaurant near old hotel. Had breakfast there (stuffed paratha and poori mix).

Then cycle rickshaw (3) to Hawa Mahal and took new computer pictures. Walked back to gate and took more computer pictures. Nothing was open except restaurants. Walked back to post office and waited until they opened. But no more mail for us. Exchanged $50 and walked then to Evergrean to relax and use toilet. Met same women we had met in Jodhpur at hotel.

Then took cycle rickshaw (4) to train station. Picked up our luggage and read for a while. A rickshaw (5) to bus. Had a few samosas. No bus, but us on cycle rickshaw (6) to another private bus company. To our surprise, it was a different bus - big (not mini) and with 5 seats across instead of 4 (but padded). We found out that it was only Rs. 50 (we had paid 90) and got pretty upset, but this 2^nd bus company could not help us.

Moreover, there was no activity at the bus. At 3:00 or so a down-pour started and was running in buckets. Eventually it eased eventually more travelers arrived and we left 3:25 (instead of 2). It started drizzling again and rained most of the way except near Bharatpur.

Bharatpur

It was interesting to note how much standing water here was on the fields (but not on the rivers). It must have rained a lot here. The scene reminded me of the monsoon in 1971. It was very dark when we arrived in Bharatpur, but eventually a guy found us and directed us to a hotel, which Surain recognized. Had light dinner and tea and showered.

Tuesday, July 18: Bharatpur-Delhi

Everybody was asleep when we showed up for breakfast 5:45. But did get eggs and tea and bread. Rented the bikes and biked to park nearby. A young man came with us as a guide. He knew birds petty good but not English that well. It was exciting to see all birds out there.

But I had a seizure about 6:30 - probably drank way too little water. Had a headache for most of the morning. Back to the hotel just before noon for checkout. Then lunch. Eventually took cycle rickshaw to station and 3:30 train to Delhi - very fast.

Uttar Pradesh

Delhi

Rickshaw wanted Rs. 30, so we paid Rs. 12 for prepaid rickshaw. But nobody wanted to take us unless we paid Rs. 10 extra. Eventually police told one guy to take us. He stopped very near where road was blocked and he couldn't go any further (not true). So we walked from there. Had dinner at hotel, they had only Thai and Italian food! Then did email for Rs. 10 per hour.

Wednesday, July 19: Delhi

Had stuffed paratha for breakfast - the only thing Indian the south Indian restaurant did before 9. Home page day - ran around to most email places and finally downloaded the pictures and worked on stories. Met Joan and Petra for dinner at other hotel with nice Indian food.

Thursday, July 20: Delhi (find camera lense)

Met Joan and Petra at German bakery for breakfast. Had Masala omelet. We worked on stories, got our carpet. Checked post office, looked for clothing, camera lens, etc. Bought pirate software, changed hotels and had dinner at same place as yesterday.

Friday, July 21: Delhi (bus tour)

Joan left for Kathmandu early in the morning, but we hugged her yesterday - would see her soon in Bangkok. Signed up for non-air conditioned bus tour around the city for Rs. 80 with Petra. We were supposed to leave 9 (we were 4(!) on a cycle rickshaw going to the bus) or the 9:30 tour, the bus left 10, but really started the tour just before 11. They tried to make us pay extra Rs. for AC, since they did not have a non-AC bus.

First saw Red Fort. They are interesting buildings, but lots of things have been removed to Iran a long time ago. Museum and other things closed. Then we saw cremation ground for Rajiv Gandi, quite nice; Indira Gandhi from the bus; Mahatma Gandhi's place was really nice and serene. There was a ceremony going on. Then stopped at government areas. They are nice and remind me a bit of Washington DC, but not really my style.

So lunch at 2:30 (!) and then Qutb Minar - really interesting, more so than I remember from 1971. A long stop at a store, then the Bhai church from 1991 in a huge area made like a lotus flower and very nice. Finally Birla Mandir temple that I showed Surain 1977, which no longer was ugly. Home just before 7. Dinner at 8 at another restaurant . Good, maybe not quite as good as yesterday.

Saturday, July 22: Delhi (email)

Breakfast at usual place with curd and fruits. Then did web stuff most of the day. Also downloaded the rest of the pictures. I did a blood draw - my INR was 4.1 - definitely higher than I like it to be. Lunch with Petra. Surain and I had chat. More web stuff afternoon and finished all of it. Saw Petra off 5:15. After 6½ months she was heading back to Lüneberg area near Hamburg and looking for a new job, possibly in Berlin. Bought me a lungi and reserved 3 CDs. Good dinner at same restaurant.

Sunday, July 23: Delhi-airport-flying to Bangkok

I had my last stuffed paratha. Fixed our Excel spreadsheet on the computer. Bought 4 musical CDs. Checked out at 12 and had my last ottapam with onions and tomato, excellent.

We were picked up by driver at 2 and were taken to Jan's place. Met her and her family (two daughters - young - and Japanese husband). Her cook had made very good Indian dinner for us, and we also drank some beer. House was Indian westernized. The bathroom had no way for Indian bath. The driver took us to the airport. It all went smoothly, though Indians did a lot of checking.