INDIA
भारत
Maharashtra State
Mumbai (Bombay)
Friday, March 10: Mumbai
Pondering about India while waiting for our 2:50 am flight. How
will we adjust to India, despite all past visits? Won't it be
a chock again? The memories are strongest of the wonderful school
kids in Karumalloor, of all the warmth, curiosity, genuine friendliness
given to us. But also of slum in Bombay and earlier memories from
traveling in the north.
Sunday, March 12: Mumbai
Finally arrive at hotel 3:00 am after 13 hours to Taipe, 4 hours
to Bangkok, 4 hours to New Delhi, and 1½ hours to Mumbai
plus Air India delays.
I am amazed as we walk out the next morning. I immediately feel like
I never left. The area near the hotel is full of construction
and many people live in sheds. There are excrement's across the
road but they are cleaned every day. People look well dressed
and have jobs - this is a sign of housing shortage in Bombay.
So much more evident is the exuberance of Indian life (description
by Surain). There are some beggars, but they are very far outnumbered
by hawkers, taxi drivers, foodmakers, sta…, rickshaws - all
living in the same street.
Monday March 13: Mumbai-Pune
We catch a train out from Churchgate to see the work of Suata
Ganeja with SUPPORT. Very interesting to see how children are
weaned off from the street. Surata says that there is always money
to be made in Bombay for those who want to - that is why there
are so many people in this vibrant city.
We catch the 2:00 train to Pune and are happy to have lots of
room with reserved seats car. We spoke too soon! At Dardar the
car quickly fills up and even more at the next stop, where some
people can't even get on board. Lots of loud voices - but not
mad, just discussing how to fit them and their stuff inside. Lots
of people standing as the train takes off, but after half an hour
many are seated - squeezed together, people under the ceiling
on luggage shelves, sitting on luggage, kids on top of adults.
It was squeezed to max, but half an hour later even more are seated.
Our area for 8 people now holds 22 seated! It is amazing how people
can stay so friendly under these conditions.
The train got an extra engine to climb up the steep tracks through
the western ghats to above 1000 meters (?). At some point near
the top it looked like a plush California community. India never
ceases to surprise you.
Despite my Hindi study I don't understand a word of what the people
next to us are saying. But then we find out they are speaking
Telugu - so maybe not all is lost.
Pune
Tuesday, March 14: Pune
Found Hari's apartment - by bus plus three-wheeler. He would be
back tomorrow, says his neighbor. Visited museum, quite interesting
(80 vs. 8 rupees for foreigners). Saw all the nut-crackers. Changed
money and visited Internet Cafe.
[Surain won't even get used to seeing women in beautiful dresses
during hard construction - like carrying baskets out of construction
holes, deep under surface]. Lots of street walking.
Wednesday, March 15: Pune-Karla caves-Pune
Train to Lonalve and 3-wheeler to Karla caves. Steep hike up to
cliff and nice cave temples - but nothing close to Ellora. 3-wheeler
and train (ordinary rather than express) back. Space in beginning,
but very crowded closer to Pune.
There was a not from Hari and we called him. After shower we took
a 3-wheeler. He lives in a quite apartment and was just back after
9 months travel. Also met his neighbors, very nice people who
spoke good English. Took a walk around the area and bought medicine
- about 10% cost.
Nice North Indian dinner with Gyan. Very good food. We all ate
with our fingers.
Saw slides from his neighbors visit to Sikkim four years ago Mrs
C's father had been the governor there, so they got a royal treatment.
He also talked about his visits to Ladakh and how to get there.
Indian good teachers: 6,000 Rs. (month). Heart surgery costs patients
60,000. Total cost 150,000.
Thursday, March 16: Pune
Bought tickets in the morning - almost one hour wait with
tow computer problems. Did not get the tickets we wanted. After
breakfast we visited an Internet café - much nicer than
yesterday's - to show Hari our houseboat.
Hari showed us the bats he studied around the area.
Friday, March 17: Pune-night train
In the morning we walked up to a temple with Hari with nice views
but did not see much - much pollution. Also museum.
Went upstairs in the morning and showed them our Internet site.
They - especially Chadrey - thought our house was very big. Finished
stuff to send home for our web site, but connection failed bother
here and at the Internet café.
Hopped on train - lots of traffic - but plenty of room in our
car (2nd class sleeper). Nice little girl and two women
sharing six beds with us.
Saturday, March 18: on train in Andhra Pradesh and Tamil
Nadu
Very hot in afternoon, northwestern part of Andhra Pradesh - almost
desert. Greener in Tamil Nadu.
Had headache.
Kerala State
Karumalloor
Sunday, March 19: on train-Karumalloor
Took three-wheeler to Johny and Mary, a little after 6 a.m. They
hadn't quite expected us yet. But got tea and then breakfast,
showered and washed clothes. Shyma was now studying , looking
for a job in Ernakulam.
Drank lots of water during day, and headache went away.
Had lunch at 2 p.m., then rest. Took bus plus bus at 4 p.m. out
to island in the backwaters.
There we met Mary's cousin and family. The man's name was Jos.
His mother was lying dying. Walked out to water and saw lots of
fish and crabs. Because of tides, it would sometimes be dry there.
During the monsoon due to cleaner water they would grow rice there
(wet rice, gave larger rice). Ate dinner, fish, chicken, "stuff".
[Kadamakudy].
Monday, March 20: Karumalloor
Surain and I took walk after breakfast, followed road down to
Periyar river, where we had been four years ago. Got stopped by
crazy man and invited to lemon lemonade on the way there. People
were very curious.
Had lunch at 2 p.m. and waked with Johny at 4 p.m. First to his
older brother George (George was 69 years old, Johny was 59) and
his family, then to his younger brother Jos, now living - traditionally
- in his parents' old home. His children occupied a fancy new
house next to the old one - but not as cool inside! Jos was a
doctor.
Walked to the river at the "bunt" - fresh water separated
from the salt. During the monsoon, this would be destroyed.
Tuesday, March 21: Karumalloor-Ernakulam-Karumalloor
In to Aluva (Alwaye) in the morning, and got pictures downloaded
at an Internet store. Spent 1¼+ hours working on the pictures.
Internet access was too slow (dialed up), so we took the bus to
Ernakulam.
Long bus ride, crowded. Got a map, bought a few books. Nice Internet
access, quite fast. Couldn't buy tickets for Milena and Kata,
alfreaduy sol out!
Didn't get home until 6:30 p.m. Took free train home.
Wednesday, March 22: Karumalloor
Went into Aluva 10-11 a.m. and booked all tickets on train station.
One was wait listed. But first phoned Udopi (near Mangalore).
Then called Hari, he seemed quite disappointed that we were going
directly to Ajanta.
[Tamil Nadu: 600 Rs./month; Kerala 500 Rs./month]
Thursday, March 23: Karumalloor
Jos picked us up just before 9 a.m. in his Ambassador. First to
the hospital where brother George (69 yeasrs) was sick, but did
not look too bad. His wife was there. No results from checkup
yet.
Jos again wondered if I should walk up there with my valve replacement.
Bought a few snacks (I did not want to eat to much, funny stomach).
Started 10:30 a.m. (should have been 9!). Nice hike up in dry
forest and few people. Beautiful view of surroundings and Periyar
river. Few people. Top at 1900 square feet. Took me 40 minutes,
Surain 60 minutes.
A priest saw us and started talking, gave us tea in the rectory.
He was the only pries there, should be here five months. Would
be lots of activity during Easter. Hardly any houses visible (government
program). This was where Thomas, one of the twelve apostles, hid.
A church was built much later (year 48?).
Jos came in a new car (his wife's) to pick us up, Suzuki made
it in India. Drove around the river, then to the Ashram of Sri
Shangaraja (in Kalady). [First church that Thomas build we saw
in Malayatoo at river]. Also visited Jos' hospital and had lemon
juice there.
Passed an elephant working some logs and stopped there (on the
way from the church where the previous pastor blessed the new
car and we had tea).
Friday, March 24: Karumalloor
Left with Johny at 9:30 a.m. with three-wheeler (with clothes
hanging to dry). Went to river and then with small boat tied with
float on side across river. Then bus to Jos' place (he was in
Goa). Sat there - except for short garden tour - until 1 p.m.,
when we had delicious food but quite bony (fish and chicken).
Before we drank toddy (made from coconut juice "tapped into
bottle").
After more sitting in living room, we walked to Johny's old school.
The headmaster had also been in Goa.
Started raining in bus back, so went to his brothers and then
home having purchased diner in Aluva (Johny did not want to call
Mary to ask if this was needed).
Mary had seen a bit upset yesterday evening, and quite so this
morning. Johny had told us we would have to leave on Saturday.
When we said we wanted to see Shyma (coming Saturday), we said
we'd leave on Sunday.
Mary was very angry when we came home (she had already made dinner).
Saturday, March 25: Karumalloor-Ernakulam-Karumalloor
Johny said that the woman cleaning leaves came ½ hour every
day and was paid Rs. 125/month. The woman cleaning came 8-5 once
a week and was paid Rs. 50 each time. They belonged to "scheduled
casts" and sometimes had hard time finding work.
Picked up at 11 a.m. Sunnaj (Tanya's father; Dr. K.G.) and taken
to their home. Very nice home in Ernakulam. Tanya's mother prepared
the best meal so far - South Indian vegetarian. Gave them the
package from Seattle and were then driven to the tourist info.
Checked Internet and then three-wheeler to station and home again.
Home around 6 p.m., Shyma wasn't there yet.
Sunday March 26: Karumalloor
Shyma slept in. Surain went with Mary at 2:30 p.m. to give speech,
but there was no translator at the church. In late afternoon nine
of us went to the ocean in two cars (Johny, Mary, Shyma, us, Jos
(brother), travel agent John with wife Elizabeth - both spoke
good English - and one man). Very nice there, with a few wet feet.
Had dinner at restaurant.
Monday March 27: Karumalloor-Trissur-Aluva
Left the family 7:15 a.m. and took bus to Aluva and got a hotel.
Had breakfast and then took 9:30 train to Trissur. From station
three-wheeler to the bat man, who lived in a wonderful house with
large yard with family. This was the only house of its kind left,
the others been torn down. Very nice meal and disappointment we
did not stay.
Took bus and train back to Aluva. Downloaded pictures and wrote
some. Chinese dinner, so-so.
Tuesday March 28: Aluva-Munnar
After 45 minutes wait, we found out we were in the wrong bus station.
So got on a 9:00 fast bus to Munnar. At 10:20 it started climbing
and we got off at 11:30. Got hotel but then discovered we were
in Angimali.
Munnar
So got a new bus and continued 30 km steep up to
beautiful Munnar. Lots of tea plantations (Tata!) and beautiful
views. Second hotel room for the day was very nice, Satish very
friendly an helpful.
Walked to tea plantation at West End Cottage. Took pictures of
women picking leaves. Dropped 50 mm lens.
Wednesday March 29: Munnar
Had sweet pancake and steamed banana for breakfast. Picked up
by three-wheeler at 8:00 a.m. and took us up to the National Park.
Walked up the road, pretty birds, red around noses. Then 10-13
ibex goats (Nilgiri thar). Very unafraid. After cool morning it
got warmer. Beautiful views. Saw thar twice more, one on top of
lookout point. Walked back to bus road. Stopped for lunch at tea
pickers, they showed us how to pick. [Tea pickers could make Rs.
100 per day (2500 per month - normal Kerala 1500 and Tamil Nadu
600).]
In the late afternoon (5 p.m.) we followd a road up a hill and
got some nice views.
Thursday March 30: Munnar
Had breakfast at idli-place. After changing money at 10:00 we
joined three Swiss people and walked with a guy. He first took
us to his house. He seemed very proud of Tata and all the tea
plantations. Then he showed us cardamom, coffee. After a tea,
we walked steep down to a water fall. It was nice to sit there
for a while, but the fall was not all that impressive. Steep walk
uphill to the bus stand [nobody had told us to bring lunch - two
bananas at his house had to do].
Had dinner on the street - but with chairs, water, etc. We had
Kerala paratha (I omelet as well). It was very spicy.
Thekkadi
Friday March 31: Munnar-Thekkadi
Bus left 6:45 a.m. Great seats at front and stupendous scenery
- it felt like taking a bus in Nepal! Five hours later we arrived
in Thekkadi near Periyar lake. Very nice hotel room. After using
internet, we made it down to the jetty for a tour on the lake.
Saw quite a few elephants plus some birds. Nice guy on the big
boar. Stepping off the boat, we could hear - and see - elephants
growling. Reminded me of angry brown bears.
Chatted with German neighbors in the evening. Late the man gave
us advice where to walk around.
Saturday April 1: Thekkadi
Up 5:45 and took at 6:30 three-wheeler to jetty to go on the 7:00
boat on the lake. Saw a few more birds and less elephants, but
not a tremendous difference.
After waiting around a while we got a free ride back to town.
Were hungry so had a meal for breakfast/lunch. Moved to the other
room. Walked 3:30 up to the top of a hill, passing many kids.
Steep limb to get up but great view.
Walked down through tribal land. Much poorer here (but people
looked the same). As we left, there was a sign we couldn't enter
there.
Great north Indian dinner at nice hotel - very spicy!
Sunday, April 2: Thekkadi
Easy morning and got some coffee with milk. Then took the walk
to the lookout. A dog followed us all the way up, but disappeared
in the village again. Not as strenuous as the day before. Nice
forest, very dry and no buildings or people. Spectacular view
from the lookout out over Tamil Nadu (in fact, we were in Tamil
Nadu).
In the afternoon we walked to the ship with the guy from Kashmir
to get advice and his address. He said we could stay with him.
Also used a computer at a place. Dinner at Same Place as yesterday,
not as interesting food (but we did get tea today).
Went to a house in the evening where a man gave a very good description
and performance of Tamil classical dances.
Monday, April 3: Thekkadi-Amma's Ashram
Left early after tea. Bus 7:45- very windy road (but not as windy
as from Munnar). Near the end we were out of gas and some other
problem, but we got there after almost five hours and were dropped
near the train station.
Amma's ashram
Nice train ride and then rickshaw to Ammachi's ashram. It was
big! and being built on. Amma as not there, but we knew that already.
Got a room (incredible view on 12th floor) that was
barren and not very clean.
Swede told us about the ashram - he had been there six years.
Took part in the Bhajan (singing). Watery rice (planned) dinner
with nice veggys.
Walked to the beach before at the village nearby. Played cards.
Tuesday, April 4: Amma's Ashram
Read in the morning and then went down for breakfast. Helped in
the kitchen for a couple of hours after that.
Had lunch in the foreigner canteen. Too much turmeric and not
a lot of other spices. The plate cleaning was dipping in three
water baths, the last not the cleanest one. The Indian's dipped
it into a tub seemed much cleaner.
We walked along the village in the afternoon. Nice setting, great
beach except the rock. Pounding surf. Red in the evening.
Wednesday, April 5: Amma's Ashram-Varkala
Sometimes I wonder why we go trough the trouble to book train
tickets. Just walk out the door and catch the 2½ to Varkala
like this morning instead. The bus arrived and I did know
why. No seats, so we stood. Extremely crowded and hard to keep
the balance. Had been fairly clean this morning but started sweating
from the exercise of keeping the balance. And of all people crowding
together. Ands we were on the wrong bus. It did not go to T. but
would take us to the main road. Two bus rides more - but not crowded
- we made it to Varkala.
Varkala
Nice cheep hotel room. Great beach with big surf. I swam. A fair
number of tourists, but low season now.
In the afternoon we took the "short" walk to the train
station. Much later we finally got there, and then it started
raining, and kept raining for several hours.
Went out for dinner when the rain started easing, dowsa but big
and expensive. Tourists?
Thursday, April 6: Varkala-Padmaniphuram-Varkala
Left early to catch the 8:10 train to Tiruvananthapuram. But did
not leave until 9:40. Had to stand all the way (Surain got half
a seat after a while), but it was not "packed as herrings".
After some negotiation we took a car to Padmaniphuram. Started
raining when we arrived. Had lunch.
Woman showed us around (you had to have a guide). Quite impressive
palace. She felt we tipped her too low and did not accept it (Rs.
10 is for beggers).
It rained really hard now, and one thunders was one of the loudest
I have ever heard. It was ½ second later. There were "puddles
of water" in Thiruvananthapuram from the rain. The train
stopped for long periods and was one hour late.
Friday, April 7: Varkala
Read in morning. Went swimming and playing in surf. At noon had
lunch and wanted to go for a walk, but started raining. /when
it slowed down, we went shopping. Later waked south to the fishing
village. Walked home along shore - a bit exciting to get past
crushing waves the last 100 meters.
Saturday, April 8: Varkala-Ernakulam
Caught an early train to Ernakulam. Bus to Kochi and found two
letters from Jack. Spent rest of the evening doing internet.
Karumalloor
Sunday, April 9: Ernakulam-Karumalloor
Train and bus to Johny and Mary. Great spicy lunch!
Walked with Johny around 4:30 (he did not want Surain to accompany
us). First to where Gerald used to live - one of the Goa persons
and member of the 1975 party. We met him in 1995. He drank a lot,
and during a conflict with the bank (where he worked), he did
not work for three days, drank a lot and had a heart attack and
died last year. Leaves behind wife, father, and son.
Arrac (sugar brandy) used to be easily available in Kerala for
6-7 Rs./bottle, but was outlawed in 1992 (still available in Karnataka).
Also smoking not allowed in public places in Kerala.
Said that life seemed better in Karumalloor than in other places
in Kerala and Johny agreed emphatically. Especially community.
When I said that Kerala and Karnataka seemed the best states,
he also agreed - Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh not as clean but
people were nice.
Showed me rubber tree, which are tapped every three days. Used
to earn 64-65 Rs./kilo, but has now dropped to 20-25 due to competition
and artificial rubber. We passed many of his friends.
Monday, April 10: Karumalloor-Aluva
A family presenting a man to marry Shyma came 10:30, so we went
to Aluva before, doing Internet and not mailing two packages (would
have cost Rs. 815 each). So bought stamps for mailing them to
Delhi (Rs. 74 each). Had lunch and read.
Johny and Mary said Shyma had approved. Now it was up first to
the boys famly, and then to them. They were offering Rs. 10 Lakh
in dowry ($22,000). Their house is worth about Rs. 15 Lakh.
Left 9:30. Talked to Indian on train station while waiting 1½
hours. When train came, we were far from our car. When walking
there, it signaled to start, but all the doors were locked at
that place, so did not get on. So checked in expensive hotel room.
Tuesday, April 11: Aluva-night train
Breakfast near hotel. Red in room and then on station. Got on
train 12:30. Nice ride. Lots of more backwaters in Kerala. The
conductor gave us beds in another car, so after dinner we went
there and went to sleep.
Maharashtra State
Wednesday, April 12: on train-Jalgaon
Much drier landscape here (now in Maharashtra). Lots and lots
of tunnels (95 somebody said) made it hard to read (bad light
in tunnel). As we got on the Mumbai-Calcutta line, lots more people
got on. Electric engine and very fast ride.
Jalgaon
The train did stop in Jalgaon (it was not supposed to) so we got
off and got nice but noisy and hot hotel room.
Thursday, April 13: Jalgaon-Ajanta-Jalgaon
Had idlis and yogurt for breakfast (great!) and walked up to bank.
Did not open until 11, so hopped on bus to Ajanta (had to take
rickshaw at end). Lots of hawkers. Walked through some o the painted
rocks and down to valley floor and water (now almost empty). Had
lunch in Ajanta and then took jeep (shared) and nice bus back
to Jalgaon (changed hotel in morning, very nice and cool and quiet).
When we arrived bank at 3:30 we almost didn't get to change money
(no attention until 3:55; they closed at 4:00).
Had tea at hotel and then waited at train station. Train was almost
one hour late, but they did arrive. Arranged to rent taxi the
next morning and had good dinner.
Very hot day, but felt better than moist Kerala.
Friday, April 14: Jalgaon-Ajanta-Ellora-night train
Taxi showed up 6:30 rather than 7:30. Left 7 since no restaurant
open. He drove us to Ajanta.
Then we left again at 11 and went to Ellora (we did not have to
go via Aurangabad). Lunch and then looked at caves until maybe
5:30. Very nice as I remembered them, especially the last ones.
We had dosa dinner and train arrived 7:20 pm.
Karnataka State
Bidar
Saturday, April 15: on train-Bidar-Gulbarga
We got up and got ready 3:30, but train did not arrive until 4:40.
Found some benches among all Indians until it got light. Left
luggage at hotel. Went out by bus to … at Muslim fort, quite
nice (but not worth the detour to Bidar). Since there wasn't much
more to do in Bidar, we got on a bus to Gulbarga, which took almost
three hours. Not a bad ride.
We tried to get on a bus to Bijapur, but had no luck (there were
extremely many buses and except a few, people were not very helpful).
Also extremely hot. So looked for a hotel room. Did not like what
we saw at us stand, so took a three-wheeler to better place. Had
some good Indian beer there. Went to internet shop, and found
out it had been 44º during the day (42 according to newspaper).
Sunday, April 16: Gulbarga-Badami
Had idli and then got on bus to Bangalkot. It took almost 8 hours!
Not a bad bus, but WAY too long. Then immediately switched to
bus to Badami and got there 5:30.
Badami
Found cheep hotel and expensive
dinner, but nice restaurant. Phoned Viday's parents. Not as hot this day.
Monday, April 17: Badami-Aihole-Pattadakal-Badami
Early bus out to Aihole with nice 500-700 A.D. temples. Got on
the same bus back to Pattadakal as it returned. Short look at
these caves and then jumped on minibus back to Badami. Both were
extremely crowded.
Had tali lunch. Went up to the Badami caves later in the afternoon
- even nicer than we remembered them. Life in Badami very interesting.
Colorful market, pigs, horse drawn rickshaws, carts drawn by cows,
etc.
Tuesday, April 18: Badami-Hospet-Hampi-Hospet
Walked up to see the temples on the other side. Hot a few boys
to guide us there. As soon as they got one rupee they disappeared.
No entrance charge - too early. Nice temples with great views
- especially from the fort.
Took a horse rickshaw to train station and then two trains to
Hospet. Not crowded.
Hospet
Mrs. Sastry met at the train station and
the driver drove us to their house within walking distance from
the train station. Very nice home with gate. Lots of construction
going on. After a quick shower we drove out to Hampi to the "car
festival", which turned out to be a temple festival with
huge chariots and lots of people. Very colorful with one
elephant and also a smaller "car".
We had dinner back at the home. Surain and I slept on the roof.
Full moon (the festival is the first full moon after spring solstice).
Starts and good temperature - a bit cool (!) ub the morning.
Wednesday, April 19: Hospet-Hampi-Hospet
Breakfast about 8 and about 10 Dr. Sastry took the four of us
plus driver to Hampi - the nicest temple. He lay down and told
us to look around (no guide). We then drove out to his farm. He
was growing rice and had plans for garden, batch, etc. Really
liked the place.
Back in Hospet we could not find any place that exchanged travelers
check. So we had lunch. Later I walked and did find a hotel that
did exchange. This was not a hotel exchange - after 15 minutes
a guy arrived and gave me dirty cash. Did Internet later.
Thursday, April 20: Hospet-SPS meeting-Hospet
Surain had stomach problem in the morning, so I went by myself.
Bus at 7 took 3½ hours to Harihar (had expected 2½ or
less). Very bad road and crowds of people that got in and out.
I did have a seat. So called SPS from Harihar and then took a
bus to Rantapur. No wait, fast bus and good road. Found their
office after a while and took a rickshaw with two guys out to
the Blackbuck sanctuary, where the meeting was.
Left the village at 6:00 and the Bus left at 6:25 and took two
hours home. No crowd, even had seats!
Friday, April 21: Hospet-night train
Sastri drove us to about 8 Hoysala temples and around Gadag. Not
nearly as nice as Halebid and Belur, but fun seeing similar temples.
Road very rough at times, and my stomach a bit upset, not badly.
Had lunch at restaurant. The driver was very slow going back,
probably falling asleep. He backed into another car at Tungra
dam, so we left immediately. Did Internet - PC late afternoon,
but were not able to download pictures.
Had good dinner and then took goodbye of the Sastry's and rickshaw
to the train station. Vicious dogs here.
Did not get a sleeper, so rode in ordinary class.
Andhra Pradesh State
Saturday, April 22: on train-Tirupati
Sat first. About 2:00 am a man gave me luggage rack. About 3:30
switched with Surain and I sat. Lots of people sleeping on floor
everywhere. About an hour later people got off, so I laid down
on floor to try to sleep.
Tirupati
Arrived Tirupati 9:30. The hotel close to train station looked
nice, but was crowded inside and only scoop showers ("sub-standard").
At Rs. 200 we probably paid for "finders". Showered.
Took rickshaw to city temple and walked through it - prepared
for big crowd. Beautiful Hindi religious inside. Then took rickshaw
and bus up to Tirumalai -India's richest temple. Again bus not
crowded - off season? Very steep climb up hill with great views.
Tirumalai a whole city devoted to temple and lodging and selling
paraphernalia. Very hot. Rs. 50 to get into fast line (would only
take 1-2 hours). We did not. Slow line was very large and slow.
So only saw temple from outside and were not impressed.
The bus took us all the way back to bus stand and we walked to
hotel. Found slow email site on he way. The restaurant was quite
nice.
Sunday, April 23: Tirupati-night train
Booked tickets with tourist quota to get sleeper. Checked out
and stored luggage in hotel. We found at least five email places!
At one it was fast in the beginning, but then slowed down considerably.
Took rickshaw to park, which turned out to be where you started
hiking up to the temple. Lots of beggars. We sat down on the stones
in shade for a couple of hours. Hot and not very nice. Then bus
back to town. Got a sleeper with people from Visakhapatnam who
gave advice about what to do there.
Visakhapatnam
Monday, April 24: on train-Visakhapatnam-night train
Arrived 10:30. Lots of agriculture along train, quite green. Left
backpacks on train station and took rickshaw out to the Bay of
Bengal at the Gandhi statue. Water was not as hot as expected.
Walked north along water. Lots and lots of garbage and lots of
development. Park on other side of the road. Not bad but no shade.
It was not as hot as in Tirupati, though, and nice breeze. Had
several nice juice drinks as we walked south to the fish area.
Breakwaters and lots of boats and fish market. Took lots of pictures.
Then rickshaw to Kailash Giri (hill). Lots of trees in the city.
Walked up the steps in the steep hill for a stupendous view of
the city and Bay of Bengal and all the dhow fishing boats just
returning to shore. So back to train station. Showered. A rickshaw
driver who was going to show us to a restaurant invited himself
to dinner. We did pay for him but not for the rickshaw ride.
The fans did not work on the train, but it was not so hot. To
bed early.
Orissa State
Bhubaneswar
Tuesday, April 25: on train-Bhubaneswar
Arrived 6:30 and walked to nice hotel. Had breakfast at hotel
(not too interesting). Then walked to tourist info (not good)
and took bicycle rickshaw to "five" of the temples.
Interesting and worth seeing, but not wonderful. Changed money.
Back to hotel and had thali lunch. Then rickshaw to place that
advertised about email. Saw many email places on the way. Managed
to download pictures and emailed them - the site was quite fast.
We spent three hours there. Surain crashed when we got back and
I took short walk in the industrial neighborhood and had some
snacks. My watch broke.
Wednesday, April 26: Bhubaneswar-Puri
Uttapam for breakfast, checked out from hotel. Took rickshaw to
caves which were better than expected. Not like Ellora, but liked
the green surroundings.
At train station 1:15 for 1:40 or 2:00 train. But the first was
"three hours late" and the second - passenger - arrived
almost two hours later and took almost three hours. But nice ride
through villages and green fields everywhere.
Puri
Walked from train - a mistake - and finally reached a pretty nice
place for only Rs. 100 (other place was only 50).
Thursday, April 27: Puri
Changed hotels in the morning. Our hotel was pretty good, but
we found a nicer one nearby with terrace view for Rs. 200. Booked
train, it took a long time, had pictures taken for Sikkim permits,
bought postcards. Humid and hot. In the afternoon we walked to
beach and along to fishing village and it and heard lots about
the damage from the super cyclone, where mud homes were destroyed.
Then Surain exchanged a book, my hair was cut, and the watch repaired
(but without second hand). Dinner at same place as yesterday.
Friday, April 28: Puri
I walked alone in the morning to the "old Puri". (The
new one was started in 1992). Lots of Indians in water and nice-looking
hotels along shore, lots of things going on. Then up and viewed
the temple and rickshaw back. Read in afternoon and made the same
trip in afternoon with Surain. Many nice buildings in Puri. One
man near temple naked.
Saturday, April 29: Puri-Konarak-Puri-night train
Checked out and took bus to Konarak. Nice temple (but a bit crude).
Scout kids. Bus back and had lunch at beach. Walked home. Read
a bit before going to station and train to Howra. Very little
food offered on train.
West Bengal State
Calcutta
Sunday, April 30: on train-Calcutta-night train
A day when most things went wrong. Arrived Howra 7 and took shared
taxi to Sealda and left our luggage there. Breakfast and bus towards
Fairy Place. Walked and got there just after 9. Waited until it
opened 10:00. One hour wait. No tourist quota available on our
train, so had it reimbursed. Did not want to take train from Howra,
so got the 13:40 train from Sealda. Had to use $10, since we had
no exchange receipts. Bureaucracy! So used really bad email, had
lunch and bus out to Sealda. Got luggage and waited. Then found
out that train was delayed until 5:00 due to new train inauguration.
So rechecked bags and took two buses to Calcutta. Plus tried subway.
Walked around for a while and then took taxi to Sealda. Found
out that train was delayed until 9:30.
So taxi back to Calcutta. Did great email, walked around Cudder
Street and had good dinner. Taxi back to Sealda. Train left on
time 9:30.
Monday, May 1: on train-Siliguri-Gangtok
Very green and flat landscape from the train. Again little food,
but did get a dosa each. Arrived Siliguri 12:30 and we took rickshaw
to the Sikkim tourist office, where we met Robin and Joy (Portland/Britain).
Easy get a visa for Sikkim. Had lunch and then jumped on shared
jeep to Gangtok (about 2:30). Had not been too hot and clouds
moved in, it got COLD and started to rain. Beautiful scenery and
very steep and windy road, looked like Nepal.
Sikkim State
Got stamped in after 2+ hours and then at end long climb to Gangtok,
steep and lots of hotels and buldings perched on steep mountain
side - so many more buildings than I could remember. Lots of traffic.
Heavy rains at times.
Gangtok
Arrived in Gangtok and walked less than 10 minutes steep walk
up to Modern Central, where we got a room. Found out that Joan
had had the same room. Dinner in restaurant, not bad but not very
spicy. Crashed quickly.
Tuesday, May 2: Gangtok, Enchen Monastery
Nepal relived almost - except the city flipped 70º on a steep
mountain side with tremendous views - just like when trekking
in Nepal. People are mostly Nepalese with lots of Tibetans and
carry like Nepalese porters. Jeeps everywhere and and very steep
walking up and down. No bicycles! Our hotel room has good views
of Kanchendzunga (4th floor).
Found nice Indian restaurant for breakfast.. Most stores closed
on Tuesdays. So walked up to Botanical Gardens with orchids, and
then steep climb to Encheng Monastery, quite nice. Walked around
the city in the afternoon. Had our best dinner so far in Krishna
Restaurant with Robin and Joy.
Wednesday, May 3: Gangtok, Institute of Tibetology
Did some shopping in the morning and then steep downhill to Indian
Tibetology ceneter. Again impressed by the city, how clean, un-Indian,
policemen to direct traffic, sidewalks, parks, walkways everywhere
- and steep! Did not recognize the Tibetology at all, but very
nice. Thankas and nice stupa. Nice trees.
Took shared taxi back. Had lunch and then walked other direction
to the Handicraft Center, which was not too impressive. Nice view
of Kanchendzunga around. Dogs barked a lot at night.
Thursday, May 4: Gangthok-Rumtek-Gangtok
Stupendous views as the sky was clear. Idli with Robin and Janet
and then jeep to Rumtek. Left at 10 and thinking, 23 kilometers
would not take that long. I was proven wrong. One hour and twenty
minutes!
There was a temple festival starting right when we got there,
as the monks lined up and walked into the temple. Music in the
temple for a while, then we could walk in and then had to leave
as the monks gathered again. Saw the golden stupa and walked around
a while.
Had to find a jeep back, started walking. Had dinner downstairs,
Surain a bit worried about food-intake.
Pelling
Friday, May 5: Gangtok-Pelling
Took 7 am jeep to Pelling. Got back seats. Dusty and lots of
hairpin turns, but did not mind due to great views of the mountains.
Garuda nice hotel, bit slow food. Walked to the monastery [Pamayangtse],
very nice surroundings and old painting inside - beautiful - but
outside needed painting. On top of hill. Lots of jeeps arrived
later.
Dinner at Alpine - Tibetan soup was OK.
Talked to jeep driver from village nearby. He was bhutia, one
of the tribes. He did not understand why all Indians never walk.
Saturday, May 6: Pelling
Cloudy early, but the mountains came out 6:30 in all their splendour.
Sat at top balcony taking pictures with other tourists. Had breakfast
there. We had Tibetan tsampa porridge - probably millet and not
too exciting. Washed clothes and walked to the Sanga Choelling
monastery. 1697. Very nice walk, but no mountains, though steep
forest. 20 monks and 12 students studying Tibetan there. Spectacular
setting with views of the other monastery. Surain got a leech
on her toe, took a long time to heal.
Lunch at Alpine, started raining. Bought bus ticket for tomorrow.
Waked down toward waterfall, but since it would be in the clouds
later, turned around. Walked down steep steps through homes, then
up again.
Finally down to lower Pelling and beyond, then back. Later it
started to rain, harder, so had dinner in hotel.
Sunday, May 7: Pelling-Darjeeling
Mountains beautiful again. Quick tea and then took 7:00 bus to
Ja(?). Got jeep to Darjeeling there (two hours to get there) and
had thupka soup while we waited. Jeep was slow and noisy, very
slow uphill.
West Bengal State
After a while the driver stopped and said we would have to get
on another vehicle. So sat there 25 minutes, while the car disappeared
for a while, and they worked on it. Then we all got back into
it and we continued. There were four seats in front (!), four
in the middle, five in back, plus one guy holding on. Very slow
going, very steep and incredibly bad road. Stopped twice to fill
water. Higher and higher we got, finally the road started improving
and we made it, almost three hours.
Darjeeling
Started walking, but it soon started raining. Steep uphill and
heavier rain, we hid and walked and hid. It started raining heavier
and we hid, close to hotel. Then Joan and Petra showed up and
we followed to very near hotel. Cheep rooms (120) but damp and
dark, fairly clean though. Had lunch. Then walked down to train
station to buy tickets, but had already closed. Saw toy train
take off. Later had dinner with Joan and Petra. No electricity.
Cold.
Monday, May 8: Darjeeling
Gorgeous morning with all the mountains visible. Had breakfast
with Joan at Tower hotel and tried the Tibetan bread. Huge and
good but not spectacular. Then Surain and I walked down to town.
No computer booking and we got no seats. So walked to zoo and
saw snowleopard and common leopard and Himalayan bear and lots
of birds. Saw half of the mountaineering museum before we had
to hurry back to great Indian restaurant to meet Joan and Petra
for lunch.
Took it easy in the afternoon and showered. Joan was sick (laryngitis)
so had dinner with Petra. Electricity in hotel for a while, but
then it disappeared. Cold night again, but not quite as cold as
yesterday (it did not rain at all).
Tuesday, May 9: Darjeeling-Siliguri-night train
Cloudy morning. Joan much better, so we all had breakfast at Tower
hotel. Surain and I then walked to get on 10:00 bus to Siliguri.
Nice but too small for my legs and too many people in beginning.
Lots of traffic at top, little at end. Took almost four hours.
Couldn't buy tickets at Siliguri railway station, so took rickshaw
to NJP [North Jaipalguri] and got tickets for Patna (did not go
to Mada as planned, since we could not get sleeper for the following
night).
Wednesday, May 10: on train-Patna-Bodh Gaya
Very confusing on the train, we only had half a seat [each], but
used empty beds. I ended up using three different ones during
the night. Realized later we should have tipped the conductor.
Both had beds all night though, but noisy and people moved a lot.
Bihar State
Vegetable cutlet for breakfast, good, the omelet less so. Plus
boring bread. Arrived Patna 1:45. Train station very crowded.
Had nice lunch and then took a "taxi", that turned out
to be a jeep. Very slow going in beginning, then road very bad.
Took forever, about five hours [to Bodh Gaya]. Burmese monastery
simple but adequate, nice garden.
Bodh Gaya
Thursday, May 11: Bodh Gaya
Porridge with coconut and bananas for breakfast. Visited the Tibetan
and the big temple, both very nice, especially the lotus pond.
Extremely hot to walk on the stone with bare feet. Had good thali
for lunch (the hottest vegetables we had had).
Saw the rest of the temples after lunch, most of them quite impressive
(the second Tibetan and the Japanese especially). The Chinese
was too austere, the Bhutanese too much (three-dimensional) inside,
but nice outside.
Relaxed in the afternoon. Dinner on same place as lunch.
Rajgir
Friday, May 12: Bodh Gaya-Rajgir
Had 6:30 breakfast across (muesli-curd-coconut-banana). Then rickshaw
to Gaya and bus to Rajgir. Road incredibly bad first 1½
hours. Got nice hotel in Rajgir via horse tonga. Had good thali
and then the tonga took us to the cable car.
We rode up (like skiing) with great views. Walked around the stupa
(hot!) and then into nice temple(Japanese). Walked all the way
down in the heat, and reached the caves halfway.
The tonga took us back through two more sites (basically just
stone floor structures remaining). He then dropped us at the hot
springs, now looking like a bath. We walked down there and I took
my bath, both in general area and below in below in men's area.
Walked to nice park with big pond and many big carps swimming
there.
Dinner dosa and (?); good but expensive Rs. 20/40. Surain had
stomach problems and had no lunch.
Saturday, May 13: Rajgir-Patna-Varanasi
Up early and took 6:40 bus. Had to transfer to other bus. Road
was not all that bad, but it still took 3:40 to cover 105 kilometers!
Very crowded at train station. Had lunch and bought confusing
tickets (was not allowed to buy sleeper class without reservation,
had to buy for longer distance). But train was still full of people
standing in sleeper class. Finally [the train] left and people
got off after an hour, less crowded.
Uttar Pradesh State (U.P)
Varanasi
Extremely hot, like an oven. Arrived 6:00 [to Varanasi] and took
rickshaw. Slept on roof, not bad.
Sunday, May 14: Varanasi
Up 4:30 and walked down to ghat and boat ride for two hours. Lots
of other tourists out there. Sun came up over all the bathers.
Passed two burning ghats. Then had breakfast at hotel. Spent the
rest of the time around Varanasi. Joan got sick. In the evening
we walked through the ghats with Petra and then through narrow
streets with many shops.
Had dinner at email place - but could not download. Slept on roof
again.
Monday, May 15: Varanasi
Again breakfast at hotel. Went with Petra to fabric shop - seams
on their shirts not good. Then to money change place (Petra went
back) and changed $100, to post office and got four letters (Jack=3,
Gösta = 1) and same rickshaw back to near Golden Temple.
Lost our way in the basaar around temple with shops everywhere.
Are at South Indian restaurant. Visited many Internet places,
but found none where we could download. When we got back Joan
was better, but Petra was sick. They blamed it on the water and
switched back to bottled water. But felt great [Joan], the best
since arrived in Varanasi with no signs of headache.
Around 4:30 we walked down to the ghats with Joan, and I swam
in the Ganges, even dipping my head. As we walked further, I got
a massage. Dinner at South Indian place, slept on the roof.
Tuesday, May 16: Varanasi-Sarnat-Varanasi
A few drops of rain drove us out of bed early. Surain went downstairs,
I wrote a few postcards. We took a rickshaw [with Joan and Petra]
out to Sarnat, where I recognized absolutely nothing and did not
find the temple I expected to find. Had lunch at the sister [to
the one we stayed in] hotel (unknowingly). We did some more download
exploring, the Joan and Petra left for their train to Agra. Our
nice dinner took almost two hours, so we missed the music performance.
Wednesday, May 17: Varanasi-night train
More failed downloads in the morning and found out all Srinagar-Leh
flights were fully booked. Went to train station and bought ticket
to Bareilly on ordinary train. Back to little business where we
had tried to download earlier, and it finally worked. They did
not have PhotoShop, so went to other place to work the pictures.
Power outage. Back to hotel for an hour until power came back.
Spent frustrating time until we managed to save our changes to
a floppy.
The rickshaw to the train station broke down, so switched to much
slower cycle rickshaw and missed the tourist quota. Got assigned
one seat each. The Indians did not understand it, wanted the entire
seat since only their name was on it. Finally they agreed. So
we shared one sleeper.
The conductor never showed up (probably too crowded), so the promised
switch to berth never happened. I slept on the floor a few times,
seemed buggy.
Thursday, May 18: on train-Lucknow-Ramnagar
At 3 o'clock some people got ready to leave, so I got their upper
berth. Much nicer! Had samosa for breakfast. Reached Lucknow
at 9 and realized the train was really late, so got off and on
an express train, which left 10:15. The second class sleeper
was quite dirty and toilet had no water. But no ticket checks
for 7½ hours, so we rode free.
Sat for one hour before rolling into Moradabad a few minutes later.
Took a 2 hour bus to Ramnagar leaving at 7:30. But were delayed
one hour in heavy traffic and arrived four hours later.
Ramnagar
A man saw us walking and lead us to a hotel room at 10:45. We
got the Rs. 300 room for Rs. 200. It was nice enough, though
it lacked overhead shower and good lighting. And had air condition
and exercise bike but no regular fan.
Friday, May 19: Ramnagar-Corbett
No breakfast on hotel, so walked up and found nice one with very
friendly person, who spoke some English and showed us book of
previous travelers. He commented on that we drank the water "must
be on a budget and traveling long".
Went to the park service office and signed up for two nights bunks
(their was nothing else). Rs. 100 per person and day for non-Indians,
30 for Indians. Also would have to pay Rs. 350 per person for
two nights stay (Indians paid much less). There was a jeep driver
there, so we went with him first to exchange money and then to
our hotel to pick up our stuff.
Corbett National Park
He was a nice guy, and the jeep ride was very enjoyable. We saw
sambar, a crocodile, an eagle just above red monkeys, and birds
and more deer. Had lunch at nice and pricy restaurant (about
50% more than normal).
The bunks were hard but it was clean. At 4:30 we went with the
same jeep and a good guide. We found red monkey and black (the
common langoor), sambar, cheetal. A peacock in its plumes, trying
to attract a female, two tortoises making love (rare, the guide
said, he had never seen it before). Quite a few birds (bee-eaters,
king fishers, parakeets, paradise flycatchers, etc.), several
more kinds of deer. A sambar made a warning call, we could hear
the tiger and went for it. They got really excited, but no tiger.
He had seen it 3 times yesterday, and somebody else saw it 7:10.
So we moved to grassy area and saw many elephants, plus a jungle
cat (rare, the guide said). Back about 7:390 and saw the slide
show of the Project Tiger (started in 1972 with only 2000 tigers
remaining). Had dinner in 2nd restaurant, quite good
with regular prices. Heard tiger growl in the evening.
Saturday, May 20: Corbett
My birthday!
Walked to watch tower about 5:30 am, passed several barking deer.
Nice enough. Saw lots and lots of elephants, more than 100 [at
one time]. Six of them quite near. More deer in river, maybe
six sightings. Langour monkeys were close, birds chirping all
the time. Other people had seen tiger both yesterday and this
morning.
Watched cloths. At lunch two other westerners showed up, Mark
(Holland) and Fabienne (France). Tried to get extension [to the
two day stay], but not possible. Went on elephant ride with them.
The sky was dark, and when we hit the forest, a storm blew up
and rain started falling. So we got back to Dhikala without seeing
anything. Took a walk until 7:15, when we signed up Mahendra
for tomorrow's jeep. Dinner at expensive lodge. Good but not
very interesting - way too mild. Cool night and had the half-hut
to just four westerners.
Sunday, May 21: Corbett
Up at five four the jeep ride. Saw lots of cheetals and birds,
but it was not as exciting as yesterday. Somebody said it was
due to the rain yesterday - the animals did not need to go to
the river to get water. At breakfast time we tried to sign up
for a ride out off the parks, but then decided to stay without
a permit. After lunch Indians arrived, so had to move to bead
in other half of the building. Then took our books and hid away
from the manager, so hid until it would be too late to kick us
out. But he was very friendly when we saw him at 4:15 and said
he had arranged for one more night's stay.
Got on the elephant ride with Mark and Fabienne. Saw lots
od cheetals, apparently not afraid of the elephant at all, since
we got very close. Heard the alarm sounds from the barking deer,
heard the tiger and waited for a long time - but no tiger. We
were out three hours instead of two.
Monday, May 22: Corbett-Haridwar
Rained hard during the night, so we did not go to the watchtower.
Took jeep at 10:40 to gate, the bus to Ramnagar. Had great thali
(Rs. 45 each!).
There was no 2:00 bus to Dhera Dun, so took bus down to Kashipur
(½ hour). Waited 40 minutes for bus to Haridwar. People
told us to get into bus. But after the bus had left 15 minutes
later, we found out we were on a bus to Nainital! So a little
later they transferred us to a bus to Haridwar, where we got 9:40.
Decided to sleep there.
Tuesday, May 23: Haridware-Dehra Dun
Very quite night. Idli for breakfast and then bus to Rishikesh.
Lots of ghats at the Ganges visible from the bus. Took rickshaw
to M&Fs hotel, left them there. Walked across the bridge
and along the river for a while. Nice to look at for a while,
but ½ day seemed enough for us there. And the ghats in Haridware
looked more interesting.
Dehra Dun
Then a bus to Dhera Dun and rickshaw. Warmly welcomed. Had coke
and tea and were introduced to several climbers. - one had spent
1½ years in Antarctica on an Indian expedition. Our host
had a beautiful mountain picture of a 20,230 feet peak he had
climbed.
Showered and put on clean clothes. Great dinner, especially the
basmati. Met some of his friends, one had spent 1½ years
in Antarctica doing research. To bed close to 11, right after
dinner.
Wednesday, May 24: Dehra Dun
Cloudy in the morning, so no mountains. Ran around between email,
having a shirt sown and watch repaired. Spent a lot of time doing
email at three places and in his office and almost finished.
But couldn't send all the pictures to Lee, server problems.
Great lunch and dinner, both very late. Lots of power cuts made
it hard to work. Seemed to be several hours in the morning and
one or two in the afternoon. Dinner very late, but went to email
pictures to Lee at 10:30. First five worked fine, then there
was a server problem at 11:00 and we gave up.
Thursday, May 25: Dehar Dun
Started trying to email files at 10:30 or so. Got started, but
the generator gave out. So went to email café, but they
had no power. At 11, first email was working, but no computer
available. Café still had no power. At 12:30 first place
had computer, but it was too slow to even reach Hotmail. But Surain
finished story and I editing htm file.
Dr. Puri helped us buy sweat suits and bought compass and socks
from him. Back to email place at 3:45 and tried Yahoo. Seemed
to work better than Hotmail, and eventually uploaded everything.
Just when we were done, the computer went black.
So walked to café, but no computer available. Had tea.
The email place was up again, and we had to send a few files
again.
Later in the evening we showed our houseboat to Richa and her
friend. Were introduced to Dr Puri's friends, who told us there
was a luxury bus at 5 am.