Greetings and travel stories
from our visit to Dharamshala, Himachal Pradesh
Now it's June 13 already, and
pinch me, we're truly sitting in the magical paradise of Srinagar,
with Dal Lake and its heavenly houseboats, the favorite playground
of the British when they lived here. But before I start raving
about the wonders of Kashmir, I must tell you about our incredible
stay in Dharamshala.
Dharamshala is the seat of the
exiled Tibetan government and the home in exile of the Dalai Lama.
He arrived here in 1959, when he fled Tibet, as the Chinese invasion
there intensified. We arrived here in the morning of June 3, 2000,
after an all-night bus ride from Shimla. We were again on the
trail of friends Joan and Petra, so we headed directly to the
guest house where they were staying. (We had last parted in Varanasi,
from where Joan and Petra had traveled to Agra and Delhi …
We went via Corbett National Park, Dehra Dun, and Gangotri.) When
we arrived at the Tara Guest House, we learned that the Dalai
Lama was then giving an audience. We stashed our backpacks
in their office, and quickly went down the hill to the temple
and residence grounds, where we joined the throngs waiting. Dare
we hope to get an audience? It didn't seem possible, since so
many people had waited for up to a month and everyone seemed to
have the proper registration form, having cleared security earlier
in the week. But we followed our noses to the people who seemed
to wield the necessary power, and soon we turned over our passports
and handbags and joined the others who had passed into the residential
grounds. We waited another half hour or so, full of wonder that
we could actually be here, and not yet comprehending the reality
that we might soon meet the Dalai Lama.
Then we found ourselves shepherded
into a line, single file. We followed, around a garden, and then
I saw that I was approaching the Dalai Lama … for real, the
Dalai Lama. Then I was in front of him, with his eyes looking
only at me. I took his hand in both of mine, and for the brief
moment that I had, I felt his love and compassion enter me. His
face is the ultimate of peace and wisdom, and I love the sparkle
of laughter that lurks in the eyes and the corners of his lips.
What else could we do than pursue
some Buddhist learnings while we were in Dharamshala? Each morning
during the next week, we attended two courses on Buddhist philosophy.
The teachers (Rimpoches) each reflected the same qualities
that I so admired in the Dalai Lama. And when some question or
discussion would cause them to break into laughter, I felt joy
simply to be in their presence.
Dharamshala is in a lovely setting, in the foothills between plains
and rivers and the snow-capped mountains. One can say that the
town actually has 3 main parts, spread from top to near-the-bottom
on the hill. Each is about a 20-minute walk over the steep hillside
from the other (or a 45-minute bus ride through many, many switchbacks).
The business town is toward the base. The classrooms, library,
government buildings (of Tibet in exile), and some residential
dorms are midway. And at the top, known as McLeod Ganj, is where
most of the tourists live, with restaurants and lots of handicraft
shops. The Dalai Lama's residence is near McLeod Ganj. There's
a lovely path around the hill with the residence. We joined many
Tibetans on this path, spinning the prayer wheels.
In Buddhism, there are many beautiful ways to send prayers to
the heavens. Prayers are written on colorful flags, big and small,
that hang in the wind from tall bamboo poles or are strung between
buildings. Prayers are enclosed in pendants worn on necklaces.
Prayers are written in beautiful script on stones facing the sun.
Prayers are enclosed in prayer wheels, large and small, that are
spun, always clockwise (or "with sun", as the
Swedes put it). There were lots of prayer stones and prayer wheels
on this walk around the Dalai Lama's residence, and some of these
prayer wheels are the largest I think we've ever seen.
Many travelers stay in Dharamshala for months, studying Buddhism,
meditating, teaching English, helping in the hospital or with
other social programs. It would be an easy place to stay, lovely
environs, lovely people all around, and many good things to get
involved with. But we had to move along. We had booked a flight
from Srinagar to Leh (Ladakh) for June 18. We had to get to Srinagar
… and experience all that would lie ahead for us there.
Until then - with our love and namaste - Surain
