Namaste from India

Thursday, March 16, 2000 … Pune, India

Surain's words:

India surrounds us. The heat comes through the curtains, the smells of spices from the kitchen, the sounds of the 3-wheelers and motorcycles and taxis and dogs and people from the streets. We’re in the modern India at the moment. We’re in a home that has its own Internet connection and all the modern computer equipment. We arrived in Pune on Monday, hoping to find Hari Bhat, someone we had met in 1984 through our friend, Tanya. We had started calling him before we left America and continued from Bombay without any answer. So we hopped a train here in hopes of finding Hari if we arrived at his doorstep … and luck was with us. We’ve had a fascinating time with Hari, learning so much more of India and the world through his eyes. We’ve visited his bat sites around the city, where he has been tagging and studying the bats for several years. Hari is a world-renowned expert in bats, insects, macaque monkeys, diseases that are transmitted by insects, and much more. A very interesting man.

India. I think I’ll never get used to glancing into a construction pit as I pass by and seeing the bright colors of sari-clad women with wide, low baskets on their heads, loaded with heavy sand or mud, excavating the construction site with their manual labor. In their lovely saris, they look as if they could be attending the year’s most glamorous social event. The saris are such lovely fabrics, trimmed with golden threads. The women wear them so gracefully. They walk elegantly and climb out of the pits smoothly with these heavy mud-laden baskets on their heads.

India. Maneuvering the streets as a pedestrian or from the back-seat of a 3-wheeler rickshaw is a terrifying experience. But this is India and we are going to be in this for many months to come, so we need to adjust. Keep eyes and ears open. Listen for that traffic and the honking, move over at the last second. But be aggressive or get nowhere. Cars, rickshaws, bikes, carts, people, dogs, cows, ox-drawn carts, buses and lorries. All are whizzing toward one another and around one another, through one another. White-knuckled, I hold the rail behind the driver and watch over his shoulder from the back seat of the 3-wheeler. Taxis are headed directly at us at top speed, 3-wheelers are coming from all directions, people are casually (?) walking across in front of us, and the driver averts the wheel by only inches at the last possible second. And this doesn’t just happen once on a trip … it’s a constant. We all have played on the bumper cars at the fun fairs. This is like that, only we manage to miss each other in harrowing, last second dodges over and over again. I’m learning to take it calmly (??), and survival means that I must learn to pace myself the same way if I am to get across the street.


and Robert's words:

  • Fellow passengers on train from Mumbai to Pune
  • Extra seats are found on the upper luggage shelf

    Let me tell you about one of the train trips (we have taken 5 in 4 days already). We left Mumbai (Bombay) for a four-hour ride up to Pune, out of the mega-city to find our friend Hari. Surprised that the train was relatively empty, this would be a nice ride up the ghats to the Deccan plateau. But I should have known that there is no such thing as an empty train in India. We stopped after a few minutes at Dadar and masses of riders stormed in to find seats. We soon stopped again and this time not everyone who wanted to could squeeze into the train. Lots of loud discussions when people tried to fit themselves and all their luggage. Many were standing as the train took off, but half an hour later most of them were seated – squeezed together, sitting on the luggage racks above, sitting on luggage in the aisles and between seats, kids sitting on adults. All attempts seemed to have been exhausted to find "seats", but half an hour later there were even fewer standing. In the area we were sitting there were official spaces for 8 people, but there were 22 sitting! It is amazing how people can stay so friendly under these conditions.

    And the food? Have I ever had such good food in my life before? I may, but not many times. Yes, you all know we love Indian food and have certainly not been disappoointed.

    Temperature? It’s not been as hot as expected, but still quite warm. Pune is very pleasant though the afternoons can be a bit hot. We are catching the train to Kerala this evening, and then it WILL be hot.