Namaste from India
Thursday, March 16, 2000 … Pune, India
Surain's words:
India surrounds us. The heat comes through the curtains, the smells of spices
from the kitchen, the sounds of the 3-wheelers and motorcycles and taxis and
dogs and people from the streets. We’re in the modern India at the moment. We’re
in a home that has its own Internet connection and all the modern computer
equipment. We arrived in Pune on Monday, hoping to find Hari Bhat, someone we
had met in 1984 through our friend, Tanya. We had started calling him before we
left America and continued from Bombay without any answer. So we hopped a train
here in hopes of finding Hari if we arrived at his doorstep … and luck was with
us. We’ve had a fascinating time with Hari, learning so much more of India and
the world through his eyes. We’ve visited his bat sites around the city, where
he has been tagging and studying the bats for several years. Hari is a
world-renowned expert in bats, insects, macaque monkeys, diseases that are
transmitted by insects, and much more. A very interesting man. India. I think I’ll never get used to glancing into a construction pit as I
pass by and seeing the bright colors of sari-clad women with wide, low baskets
on their heads, loaded with heavy sand or mud, excavating the construction site
with their manual labor. In their lovely saris, they look as if they could be
attending the year’s most glamorous social event. The saris are such lovely
fabrics, trimmed with golden threads. The women wear them so gracefully. They
walk elegantly and climb out of the pits smoothly with these heavy mud-laden
baskets on their heads. India. Maneuvering the streets as a pedestrian or from the back-seat of a
3-wheeler rickshaw is a terrifying experience. But this is India and we are
going to be in this for many months to come, so we need to adjust. Keep eyes and
ears open. Listen for that traffic and the honking, move over at the last
second. But be aggressive or get nowhere. Cars, rickshaws, bikes, carts, people,
dogs, cows, ox-drawn carts, buses and lorries. All are whizzing toward one
another and around one another, through one another. White-knuckled, I hold the
rail behind the driver and watch over his shoulder from the back seat of the
3-wheeler. Taxis are headed directly at us at top speed, 3-wheelers are coming
from all directions, people are casually (?) walking across in front of us, and
the driver averts the wheel by only inches at the last possible second. And this
doesn’t just happen once on a trip … it’s a constant. We all have played on the
bumper cars at the fun fairs. This is like that, only we manage to miss each other in harrowing,
last second dodges over and over again. I’m learning to take it calmly (??), and
survival means that I must learn to pace myself the same way if I am to get
across the street.
Let me tell you about one of the train trips (we have taken 5 in 4 days
already). We left Mumbai (Bombay) for a four-hour ride up to Pune, out of the
mega-city to find our friend Hari. Surprised that the train was relatively
empty, this would be a nice ride up the ghats to the Deccan plateau. But I
should have known that there is no such thing as an empty train in India. We
stopped after a few minutes at Dadar and masses of riders stormed in to find
seats. We soon stopped again and this time not everyone who wanted to could
squeeze into the train. Lots of loud discussions when people tried to fit
themselves and all their luggage. Many were standing as the train took off, but
half an hour later most of them were seated – squeezed together, sitting on the
luggage racks above, sitting on luggage in the aisles and between seats, kids
sitting on adults. All attempts seemed to have been exhausted to find "seats",
but half an hour later there were even fewer standing. In the area we were
sitting there were official spaces for 8 people, but there were 22 sitting! It
is amazing how people can stay so friendly under these conditions. And the food? Have I ever had such good food in my life before? I may, but
not many times. Yes, you all know we love Indian food and have certainly not
been disappoointed. Temperature? It’s not been as hot as expected, but still quite warm. Pune is
very pleasant though the afternoons can be a bit hot. We are catching the train
to Kerala this evening, and then it WILL be hot.
and Robert's words: