April 18 to May 18, 1997

Welcome to Indonesia.

I arrived in Manado the northern tip of Sulawesi after a 37 hour Garuda flight from the States. It felt splendid to be once more in a foreign land. During this four weeks I traveled throughout Sulawesi and the Maluku Islands before my friends Surain and Robert arrived. We had planned together a two week kayak expedition in the Banggai Islands.

THE BANGGAI ISLANDS

May 19

Surain and Robert arrived at the Bersaharti (clean heart in Bahasa Indonesia) Hotel last night. We quickly toured the town of Manado this morning and found sarongs to purchase. Sarongs are the typical Indonesian wrap-around skirt. From Manado we traveled by taxi to Bitung. A luxury but necessary mode of travel when one considers the luggage we were carrying: seven bags consisting of our two folding kayaks, food for two weeks and lots of equipment.

In Bitung we found a shop to purchase bottled water, 36 liters (2 cases) for me. Miraculously an older man with a dolly asked if we wanted the five cases of water taken over to the ferry dock where our luggage was stashed. We did. Later while walking around the empty I was able to find a long hatchet or machete. This would be used to open coconuts...much better than the typical western Swiss army knife. We picked up some papaya and bananas at another market 15 minutes from Bitung. On the way back the narrow streets were lined with yellow flags. Saw tiny horse drawn carts filled with people and goods. On our way to the ferry we stopped for a late lunch of white rice, baked fish, vegetables, and an avocado juice drink.

Caught the CM Ciremai Pelni ferry for Banggai at 6pm. Our second class cabin was just large enough for the bags and us. It is cool and comfortable on the ferry. In the evening we went up to the bridge to visit the captain and see the navigational instrumentation. The bridge is completely dark except for a few instrument lights and a handy flashlight. In fact our mission was to find out at what time the ship would pass the equator: it would be approximately at 10:30 pm.

Took our last fresh water shower for the next two weeks.

BANGGAI PORT

May 20

Awoke at 4am. Moved the bags out to the deck where the gangway would be lowered at 5:30am into the bay. We were several miles from shore on this dark raining morning. It is a beautiful sight. Hundreds of small dug-out canoes were making there way to the ship's side. There were people of all ages, some children, younger women and couples, paddling the canoes. Twenty-five foot long poles with nets attached at the ends are swung in the early dawn by those in the canoes. This game which is to catch money tossed over by the remaining Pelni passengers to the nets below, can land some eager people in the water.

Negotiations with the porters to take the bags down the steep slippery gangway to a larger out rigger canoe went as expected...we paid what seemed to be a lot of rupee (Indonesian currency). The bags and other boxes were loaded into more than half the length of the canoe; Indonesians stood near the front. However I sat near the bags. Considerably more people could be packed into the boat when they stand. The dawn is breaking. Sun rise at 6am, sets at 6pm (at the equator there is no daylight savings time).

THE BANGGAI ISLANDS

We arrived at 6am on the Island of Banggai, the harbor wall was steps from a roofed kopra warehouse where we moved our bags to get out from under the rain. We attracted a crowd of local people. The small boatman also wanted a fee for the trip from the ferry. The next order of business besides waiting for the rain to stop was to find some breakfast and check the return schedule of the Pelni ferry on June 4th. Along with a heaping portion of sambal (local hot sauce) we had rice, boiled eggs and fried fish for Robert and I.

It looks like the morning rain will soon stop. We begin to unpack our kayaks slowly. A fortress of human beings gather to surround the small area we eked out on the pier. The temperature rises rapidly, already at 6:30am it's a humid 80+ degrees. Curiously close, within inches of the gear I spread out, the kayak gets put together.

It seems to take an inordinately long time to assemble the kayak. Requests to the Banggai people to move away are frequent. The men smoking their cigarettes let ashes fall on the canvass hull.."please be careful, please move back". There must be over a hundred now, four to five people deep watching the "tourists". Once the kayak is together they, the generously helpful Indonesian, help me carry it to the water.

Bobbing in the serf while at times slamming into the wall, I manager to stow the gear inside the kayak. It is 11:25 and I wave to the hordes of people on shore, in neighboring boats, in smaller canoes. Some of the people are taking pictures of us. Has the entire town shown up for this event? We paddle our way out of the tiny bay of Banggai yet we are not alone: several motors start up and follow us for a couple of miles..."Do you want a ride, a tow to the island?" Laughter, I cannot help but laugh at their insistence. If they had only known the months of preparation we had made for this expedition and our anticipation at that moment to paddle out to sea.

BANDANG ISLAND

The islands are lush with green coconut palms and undergrowth. Tropical warm breezes I feel in my face. I get into the rhythm of paddling. Bearing south along the coast, wind, serf, swells all running from south to north. The sun breaks through the clouds and immediately scorches my head. Bandang Island is 7 nautical miles southeast of Banggai bay. Our charts from the 1940's in Dutch and are scaled at 1:250,000. We paddle three hours against slight wind and waves to reach our destination island.

On the island, near a shady rocky area one figure is seen with a sarong wrapped around his shoulders like a cape. He leaves as we get closer to shore. It's a nice stretch of white beach perfect for our first night and Robert's 50th Birthday celebration. The waters are clear and warm. Tiny fish, corals and sea grass are seen. As soon as we land a gathering of people are approaching. The figure I saw must have gone to get the others. We gained permission to camp using our best Bahasa Indonesia. How wonderful! After the harbor experience, so recent in our mind, why would we expect to be left by ourselves. The group here never reaches more than 40 people. Most wear the traditional sarong. I follow their example by changing into my own sarong. A comfortable, practical piece of clothing in these hot humid temperatures. It is pleasant and a welcome. So curious and friendly they are to us. Groups huddle about the kayaks, compass and paddles with exclamations of "bagus" (beautiful or good in Bahasa Indonesia). We will hear this countless times.. Bagus, Bagus. Questions like is there a motor, and how long did it take to paddle

from the mornings destination were common. Familiar to the sea they depend on their dugout canoes for fishing and transport. Their island, Bandang, is no more than a hundred meters across. It has a 15 foot fresh water well which is used for washing clothes and taking a mandi or shower.

The people here and elsewhere on the islands visited do not speak English. I had with me a kamus (Bahasa Indonesia dictionary) and four weeks of practice speaking in Sulawesi. The dictionary is passed from hand to hand as they try to communicate with us. Bahasa Indonesia, the national language, is a second language for most of these islanders.

This evening sitting while sitting on our tarp surrounded by the warmest smiles of these friendly people we enjoy the early setting sun. Someone climbs a coconut tree and brings us each a young green coconut to drink. My machete comes in handy. We find it a bit difficult to drink through the small opening, perhaps our noses are getting in the way. Promptly at dusk everyone vanishes back to their homes on the other side of the island. We haven't seen the village yet. In less than an hour they return to sit around the tarp, watching as we finish our dinner. Another man arrives with a ukulele to sing. How appropriate as we begin to sing happy birthday to Robert. To our surprise Surain has smuggled from Seattle an exquisite bottle of red wine for the celebration. Cheers to the full moon and the first day. This wonderful experience is more than we ever expected. I am sore from porting bags and the long day. When we say we would like to sleep they all get up immediately wishing us a good evening, Salamat tidor. Polite and helpful, friendly and inquisitive people.

TO BANGKO ISLAND

May 21

At sunrise we prepare to leave. The villagers are coming to watch as we pack. Luckily there is a large rock on the far side of the beach were we can have a private moment. It takes a bit of time to pack because the villagers are squatting around the kayak and tent. We head out around the tip of the island and stop. A couple of large rocks prove a good spot to tie up the kayaks so that we can go snorkeling. Clear warm waters with countless varieties of fish. Here we see long spindled black sea urchins that have royal blue rings painted in the shell's surface. An unusual fish clusters near with angel like wings, high fin kauberni cardinal or also called Banggai cardinal.

We head out for Labobo Island, wind and serf against us. There is a SE current, wind southerly 6 knots. We see a school of bottled nosed dolphins leaping out of the water in front of us. These dolphins often are found running with the tuna. The black pilot whales are guides to the dolphins.

At lunch time we find a secluded white beach cove. The water is 15 feet deep and crystal clear. I go for a swim and relax for a short time. We cannot see Banko Island from here. It is a long crossing and I feel sore from the past two days' activities. The wind and waves are splashing up over the bow and at times into my face. I'm glad to be wearing sunglasses to keep the salt water from blinding me. A strong east ward current continually tries to pull us off course.

The sun is beginning to set after a nine hour paddle, but were is the beach? Bangko has been like a mirage, showing up in the distance as a black three legged spec then turning into a greenish looking shrub.

At sunset we arrive at a large cove. It is low tide and occasionally the kayaks scrape against the coral. What a relief to be away from the current now. The cove has several long poles standing to mark an open waterway. Around the corner, tucked behind a small gathering of mangroves is a small village built on stilts. It seems nearly deserted in the twilight.

One couple passes us in their dugout canoe, "Bagus", they respond to our greeting "Salamat sore" (good afternoon). I paddle by a lone older man who is singing. He looks on and continues to sing. The head of the village and his wife are met next in their boat. They welcome us and we follow them to their house on stilts. We are invited to spend the night on an empty neighboring hut. The hut is constructed entirely of bamboo slats and poles. It is difficult to walk on. Large gaping holes where the water below is seen clearly, makes me wonder if anyone has lived here recently.

The village head brought over a kerosene lantern that shines brightly over the gear we hauled up to the verandah.. It helped.

Usually we make camp and eat before complete darkness falls. Tonight the moon is full, rising a half hour after a gorgeous sunset. We are sitting in an open area with a tarp spread out to prevent any gear from falling through the bamboo slats. A small gathering of people arrive one by one in their boats. After an exhausting day, it was to be a short night with the locals. I laid down under the stars soon after dinner. The villages very soon scatter to their own homes.

BANGKO ISLAND

In this strange environment perched on stilts, I was unable to fall into a deep sleep. Close to midnight I noticed the wind picking up strength. Upon awaking Surain, I suggested we move into the hut. No sooner had the gear been stowed when a squall hit the area. I held onto a corner pole to see if the kayaks were still tied and safe. The moorings were holding. The hut sways and shakes in the violent winds. We moved inside but needed to cover ourselves with a tarp to avoid drops of rain leaking through the thatched roof. Outside the villagers in canoes were yelling something to each other. There is a lot of commotion. How they managed to get around in these strong gusts was a wonder.

At the peak of the squall the man I had passed on the way in began to sing. It was a beautiful peaceful sound. It was a mixture of singing, talking, warbling and a type of yodel. Perhaps he was calming the others with his singing too. The water was splashing a few feet below us now. It must have been high tide. The squall continues yet I finally fall asleep to the sound of squeaking bamboo.

TO TREKO OEIL ISLAND

May 22

The next morning is sunny and calm. Several families are busy at their own huts. Only the kepala desa (village head) comes to join us as we pack the boats. We leave through an opening southwest of the village.

This crossing over to North Treko Oeil is not against the current and waves. The wind is slight. As I set out from the coast of Bangko the waves and swells are surprisingly large. The water is deep here. It is rough and turbulent like an agitating washing machine. However, the Klepper is stable and I run with the waves. In an hour the sea calms a bit and the 6.8 nautical mile crossing is most relaxing; even though, my hands are terribly swollen and my back aches. Arrive at a beach in about three hours. After lunch we explore the coastline and decide to camp not far from the point. At the point where mangroves grow there is a small stilt village of 10 to 12 huts. Interesting that they do not build their village on land.

Later at dusk we were to find the answer. Our encounter with Indonesian no-see-ems and mosquitoes and sand flees could not have been worse. We were bait for some hungry critters and had to head into the tent early just to get away from them. My tent did not stand up well in the sand, collapsing into a small cave. This is a tough scene when the temperatures are hot and humid not to mention buggy.

TO BADI ISLAND

May 23

Lets get away from the bugs! Left early for South Treko Oeil, a larger island. On the other side of the crossing we were met by four Indonesians who were scavenging for palm leaves and dropped coconuts. We followed them around the tip to where a small stilt village lay. I exchanged paddles with one younger boy. He had a good time using the light weight paddle. His teak paddle was heavy yet easy to use for a short distance.

There was a satellite dish at one home on the shore. Quite a surprise given the location. I had seen on my travels in Sulawesi and the Muluku Islands so understood in part their existence here. The rest of the village away from shore was inhabited. One beautiful girl who looked oriental was dressed up in a clean brightly colored sarong. On the outskirts of the stilt village, there was a hut that had fallen half into the water. That alone would have caught my attention; however, there was also a man sitting on the sloping deck repairing something hidden from my view. The people so desired us to come up onto their porch and chat for a while. Unfortunately we had just begun the days' paddle to our next destination and declined the offer.

We planned our days' paddle destinations the best we could. However, it was not easy to anticipate the currents, wind direction, wave strength and the distances we could cover in a particular day. This day was no exception.

We near the coast about 11:00 am and tied up to a mangrove for a short lunch and snorkel. From here we can barely see our anticipated destination. I head out first and paddle for an hour before Surain and Robert come along side. Already the current has taken me further to the SE than I had realized. The wind is slightly stronger out in the middle of the crossing, waves have tuffs of white breaking against the bow. I feel quite worn out after paddling seven hours. It is time for a change. I just saw a black shark fin not to far on my left. I use this potential threat to spur me on. I decide to sit up in my seat to enable me to use my back more with each stroke. Following right behind Surain and Robert I concentrate on keeping up with their two-man power.

The island of Poposan is six nautical miles from South Treko Oeil. How can we be so far from our destination after five hours of constant paddling? The currents are stronger than we expected. After a look at the map and checking our location with the GPS it is confirmed that we are way off course. It is now apparent that we must change our course and head to Badi. It seems closer than Poposan at this point. Soon we see a beach. As we are only a foot above the water, the earth's curvature does not afford us to see great distances.

This turns out to be our second most difficult day. The waves, currents and swells have been against us all day. My hands are swollen from use and I must have sprained my right index finger. My left arm, shoulder do more work.

The beach is flat and beautiful. Few bugs visit us in the evening. Sand flees, the size of my baby finger nail, feast on my feet when I unload the kayak in the serf. During our walk on the beach we notice a sign in Bahasa Indonesia that says, "private property, do not pick the coconuts". There must be a village around the corner, but we remain alone. This is a larger island than Bandang.

TO TOGONG BOJOKO

MAY 24

We planned to head for the island Pobogongkoh. I paddle once again against the waves and a slight morning current. After three hours we approach closer to the island but there are no beaches for which we can make camp. A fishing boat is moored off shore. We head for it. As I move closer an older man in a sailing dugout canoe curiously greets me then begins to tack and follow me. It is just in time for lunch and a much needed break; however, Surain and Robert are anxious to go snorkeling before lunch. It is a beautiful spot. A large clam measuring 10 inches is seen along with soft corals and fish. We soon board the boat, which reeks of drying fish, to share our lunch and chat. They tell us that the only fresh water in this region is at Badi Island from which we have just come. The fisherman's native language is an unfamiliar dialect, and not Bahasa Indonesia. Sometimes we find that the locals have different names for the islands...not the names given on our Dutch maps.

I see a beach to the east of Pobogongkoh. This island is called Togong Bojoko. We arrive to find a flat forest clearing lying just beyond the beach front. The beach itself practically disappears at high tide. This is unusual because it allows us to have some shade from the sun. The days continue to be hot and sunny even though it is purportedly the rainy season. We decide to spend a few days. I needed the rest to regain mobility to my hands and shoulders.

The water at high tide has a golden yellow-green tinge to it; however, it is pure and clear. Perhaps local sea grass affect its color.

AT TOGONG BOJOKO

MAY 25

Took a long mandi (to take a shower or bath) in the sea and sun. It felt good and was invigorating. Next we head off shore to go snorkeling from the kayaks. It is easy for me to get in and out of my Klepper in deep water. As some gear has been left on shore, the kayak becomes noticeably tipsier. The coral and fish abound at an underwater cliff two miles to the south. We are on the edge of the Sea of Banda, the open expanse between the Banggai Island group and the Flores, Bali chain.

The evening brings hordes of no-see-ums and mosquitoes. They do not bother me too much because of my earlier mandi. Glad to have a face net in addition to my long pants. It feels strange to not have had any visitors. The last two nights have been quiet. Togong Bojoko does not have a village on it, perhaps it is the bugs or lack of fresh water.

I cook dinner. The menu consists of a cooked grain (couscous or bulgar), a package of dried soup (onion or vegetable or black bean or tomato), a can of meat (crab or tuna or turkey or shrimp or roast beef), and spices. I also had several noodle dinner packages and hors-d'oeuvre ( hummus or garbanzo beans)and dried shitake. For lunches I would have left-overs, or tabouli with olive oil and hot sauce or dried nuts and fruit and turkey jerky. Fruit Powerbars were an excellent supplement to paddling, especially when there was little time to take a break. I also mixed up Gadorade for a lunch time drink. At breakfast there was the standby favorite hot oatmeal. Musli was also good with added dried cranberries.

AT TOGONG BOJOKO

MAY 26

I had an early morning swim in the warm clear water before breakfast. Robert calls from the shore which stops all activity. He was going out for a swim when he stepped on a stingray a few meters from shore. A barb slices the top of his foot, blood ensues everywhere. Robert is in extreme painful for four hours. Surain and I clean and dress the wound. We stay an extra day on the island hoping the wound will mend well enough for travel. Robert was not be able to walk on his foot for five days. I spent the day in the shade, collecting shells reading and sunning. The fireflies arrive a little after sunset.

TO BADI THE VILLAGE

MAY 27

Surain and I pack up camp and we all head south around the island before heading to Badi. Several lone stilt houses are found off shore. Why is there only one hut? Is it a resting spot or a place to weather a storm. My hands are 90% better and it feel wonderful to be paddling again. This is our first opportunity to run with the swells towards our destination.

In three hours we arrive at the village of Badi. Greeted by a large crowd and Robert hops ashore using the paddles as crutches. Yes, they understand fully the pain and discomfort of a stingray barb cut. We are directed to an empty land stilt home. I unpack with the help of the children and spent the rest of the day getting fresh water (filtered 25 liters), chatting, and walking around the small village. The vegetation is dense and green 100 meters from the village. I watch as the children ran from coconut tree to the next gathering white and purple orchids.

Many of the villagers stood around the little verandah of our hut and the children brought us lots of sea shells (ten inch nautilus, a foot long conical), even special ones from somebody's home. One neighbor woman, who said she had eight children, brought us sweet tea and cake. Slept fitfully...ugly scaly cats are heard crying during night.

TO TELOPO ISLAND

MAY 28

Up early, 5:30, to pack the gear and prepare for a long crossing that could potentially be rough. Tied my kayak to a neighboring stilt house while waiting for Surain and Robert. The tide has been going out since early morning.

Paddle west as we leave Badi to pass the beach we had camped at six nights ago. At the point we can see our new destination. Going with the swells, waves and current we make the four hour crossing of nine miles in good time. The 2 to 3 foot tall white caps keep me alert.

Finally we arrive at the inlet to Telopo where we find calm, shallow waters. The current pushing us inward. We lunch on a large log near shore. As we paddle to the northern tip of this island group, several small boats pass us. The people wave or come closer to find out where we are going. A large settlement of board walks and stilted homes are to our left. It is a small city. We were told, even some of the children from Badi come here to go to school.

We made camp this afternoon on a coral beach facing Kenaoe Island. Many bugs here so it is time to take a mandi in the sea. Later in the evening three men stop to chat. They were the ones we met after lunch on the way to our camp sight. One wears a woven yellow Muslin cap. He knows Bahasa Indonesia well and informs us of another island nearby that has beautiful beaches and no bugs.

AT TELOPO

MAY 29

Robert is still laid up with his hurt foot. To avoid the early morning pests we head out in our kayaks to have breakfast and look for coconuts across the water. We thought we were lucky when we found several brown coconuts on the ground and brought them back to supplement our dinner. They are tough to open even with a machete.

I went out with the kayak for a snorkel with Surain. She saw her first Indonesian coral snake. The water is clear and we see many clown fish and soft corals.

More visitors this afternoon. A few at first then more venture to stop as word spreads of our arrival. Bagus they exclaim as they check out the paddles and the kayaks.

Before dinner one of the boats that had stopped earlier returns with three green coconuts. A wonderful present! We use coconut milk, a slightly sweet clear drink, to make our coffee. It's OK. One small cup of coffee after dinner was a treat Robert made almost every night.

More people stop by our camp. It's already dark when three boys motor up without lights. They sit close to our lantern but do not have much to say. Probably they do not understand Bahasa Indonesia so well, they speak Bojo.

This is election day...glad to be here rather than in a town. Soharto, the second party, does win by a landslide. Not a democratic election of course.

TO KENAOE

MAY 30

The man in the woven yellowish Muslin cap had found out about the currents, arus. Around 11:00 the easterly current should slack but they advise us to go west towards Toembak Eiln before proceeding north. Several boats show up this morning to see us off. They seem concerned that our boats and ourselves will not be able to manage the crossing. It is not something they would try. The previous night had been blustery, now calm. We have noticed a strong ever-present current at this point.

At ten o'clock we head out to cross the longest and most difficult crossing to Kenaoe Island, 10.5 miles. At first the sea is deceptively calm off as we move off the coast. Then things begin to happen a mile out.

The current is swiftly moving east to the Molucca Sea, waves from the south Banda Sea collide with swells and waves from the east. With waves breaking over three feet high, I lose sight of Surain and Robert in the troughs of swells. I must paddle continuously and concentrate on navigation. I had one wave crash from the left side, spilling over me and the kayak. An alarming jolt. I must watch my right side too for waves breaking from that direction. I position the kayak so neither wave sets hits me broadside. Frantically paddling, I would reach within seven meters of Surain and Robert when they resume paddling. I am wearing out! We must continually check our compass heading, changing our bearings as we get pushed out to the Molucca Sea.

There are two short stretches of relative calm. I take the opportunity to drink and eat a Powerbar. I'm starving. Over the last few miles Surain and Robert stay closer in case one of us flips rescue could be quicker. The kayaks are stable and I am not too worried. I do admit this experience taxed my ability to manage in rough water for an extended time.

Just past the light house on the tip of Kenaoe we found a lovely cove. The terrain is lush green with cliffs jutting down to the waters edge. Small caves sound the waters' force. Its a good place to snorkel.

Made camp in the late afternoon less than two feet from the high tide mark. Sounds of the water keep me awake. We see an extraordinary sunset across the cove setting behind Labobo Island. That evening the stars were bright and clear. The south cross, milky way and other familiar constellation are seen. Our moon comes up late now, about 10:00. At the equator the moon shape differs from that seen in North America. The crescent shape points downward rather than to the left or the right.

TO BANDANG

MAY 31

We are not bathed in morning sunshine for the first time. Slowly we dry our gear, take a mandi, and pack. We head along the coast for a while then part.

I paddle across to the other side which takes an hour. Then on until I reach an arch way over the sea, a beach on my right is where I stop to eat a small lunch. In an hour Surain and Robert come into view, so I hopped into my kayak thinking we would proceed. But they were too hungry and tired to go on. We see a lot more canoes and motorized boats in this area. Many are ferrying people or goods.

Surain and I looked for shells. The rest of the paddle to Bandang went by leisurely, taking photographs and snorkeling.

We decide to paddle around Bandang to see the village for the first time. When we reach the beach already familiar faces are coming to greet us. Surain and I unload the kayaks for the last time.

A windy breeze tonight and warm. Children bring an enormous selection of sea shells to the tarp. Someone else remembers how much we enjoyed the succulent green coconuts and offers us as many as we can drink.

AT BANDANG

JUNE 1

Got up and took the kayaks out to go snorkeling. A small school of squid in their blue translucent coats came by me so I followed them for awhile.

Today several of the young boys, 3-7 years old were playing in the water with small sailing boats they had made. The common black plastic sacks were cut to make the sail. Other boys were out sailing canoes. The village of some 30 structures is set right near the water. We took photographs from shore and during our walk to the village proper. It takes only a few minutes to get from the beach on the other side of the island where we camped.

Tonight I unpack the rest of my gear and place it near the tent. "Grandma" as we called her, made coconut balls. To make these delicious balls cook sticky rice, then roll shredded coconut around each one. In the middle is a dollop of palm sugar. Tasty! A large colander bowl was passed from hut to hut. Everyone seemed to enjoy the treat.

AT BANDANG

JUNE 2

We arranged to hire a boat into Banggai port to pick up my bag and purchase the ferry ticket. Leaving at 7:45 in a long green "speedboat" or motorized boat, Edy and the owner of the kiosk whisked us to town in 45 minutes. Surain and I did our errands, bought fruit then headed back to Bandang. Some of the people who saw us on the streets of Banggai remembered that morning in May when we assembled our kayaks.

Now to begin packing the kayaks into their travel bags. It is scorching hot, sweat pours from my head and body. A crowd of people stand around watching and some help take the kayak apart. They do not like to be in the hot afternoon sun so eventually everyone retreats to the shade where Robert is sitting. More coconuts are opened for us to quench are thirst. I have the technique down: suck the juice from the coconuts rather than pore it into my mouth. That works better.

I am nearly half done when Edy comes over and asks if I would like to go to a fresh waterfall across the water. It is in fact the villages fresh water supply. Two small boys pilot the boat wildly across the water with Edy, another guy, Surain and I on board. A cool breeze from a lush green gorge conceals a stream tumbling into the sea. They fill containers of water and take a mandi. What a sensation to feel the stickiness washed from my hair and body. I feel sense a lightness.

Back at the beach I continue to pack. We gather together unneeded articles to give away. A scramble to grab the shirts, maps and food from the tarp lasts only seconds. Some have procured four items others none. Later that evening a younger man helps us carry the bags over to the kiosk's owners house. There he stows the bags in the front room. But this is also where the family sleeps, will there be room enough?

One older woman bakes donuts in which she charges 100 RP each. We are given some and buy more. We are told she is poor and needs the money. Later a bon fire is set on the beach. We burn garbage. I am tired from packing and running about. I would like to go to sleep but our last night in the Banggai Islands is special. The locals return after their dinner rather late with the hopes of a party and maybe a dance.

Surain had danced a jig with one of the women early. It really amused them.

The full moon has returned. Here we do not see the fire flies like on Togong Pojoko and Kenaoe.

TO THE FEERY

JUNE 3

"Pagi!" Good morning! is heard loud and clear. Is Surain talking to me? It is 3:45 am after a fitful night sleeping directly on the sand (packed the Thermorest already). Packed the remaining gear and carried the bags over to the boat through the darkness. Still a heavy load of gear. We set out at approximately 5am to rendezvous with the ferry. Sunrise is coming: we watch the water change from its silvery gray to orange violet shimmers. Already the small canoes have surrounded the ship when we approach.

I saw and experienced a wonderful culture of people and places. Yet my understanding of what I saw could only be filtered through the eyes of a Westerner. Much is still a mystery. To overcome the problems of verisimilitude and the suspension of disbelief in the new visions seems to require thoughts and reasoning beyond what our daily life requires of us. The experience of traveling propels me to see beyond familiar situations. I take a circuitous route, to leave then to return. Similarly, I leave wondering then return more sure. But what does this activity accomplish? This circularity is the heart of an initiation ceremony. By taking this journey I have passed through an initiation ceremony into another phase of my life.

We shall not cease from exploration

And the end of all our exploring

Will be to arrive where we started

And know the place for the first time

Elizabeth Louise Berg