TL #9 26 October l98l Monday

Lima, Peru

Greetings from llama land! Could it really be true that just two weeks ago I was beginning to fear we wouldn't see any llamas? LLamas are one of the big expectations of of South America... No? All the pictures I'd seen. All the stories I'd heard. I'd begun to think they were like the "Abominable Snowman". (This is crazy, but all of a sudden I'm questioning that adjective... Should it be "abdominable"? but that would pertain to abdomen...? But "Abominable"... Isn't an abomination something twisted? Dad, you're probably cringing... Sorry.) Back to the story. We'd been about a month in Peru without seeing any llamas... except perhaps one in the distance at dusk on one of our hikes. I took a picture, but will have to study that with a magnifying glass to determine what it is. But now we have been in "altiplano", and that is the place! We've seen hundreds , and I'm, not tired of them yet. They're a lovable­looking animal... soft and wooly. White or brown or "marbled". Supposedly they're affectionate and make good pets; but it's also reputed that they spit. Neither of us have gotten close enough to test any theories yet.

Mostly we've seen them in the fields and meadows, grazing. But one morning, we got a spectacular sight. We'd gone real early to visit some ancient Inca baths. We wanted to be there before the gate was manned to avoid the G10.00 entrance fee... really outrageous in this land where that would practically feed us for a week! Anyway... We were there for the crisp morning sun. No other tourists. Just these huge Inca stones shaped into big walls with niches for guards and an aqueduct still channeling the water into the baths. Just us, the ruins... and a herd of llamas and sheep grazing among the ruins! So ideal it seemed to be arranged... But no... They graze there because there's grass! Smart, eh?

Are you familiar with Cuzco? That's one of the prettiest cities in Peru... perhaps in all South America. Lots of tourists; more Americans than I've seen/heard in four months. But it deserves that attention and shouldn't be missed. Cuzco was the capital of the Inca empire. When the Spanish conquered, they moved the capital, but it remained a major city. A major earthquake in 1950 toppled many of the buildings erected by the Spanish... and revealed still sturdy Inca walls as their foundation. These huge Inca walls were one of their more magnificent achievements, in the material sense. In Cuzco and many nearby sites, their work still stands... stones up to 30 tons... and each one cut without the aid of modern tools and fitted together with absolute perfection. They really are awesome. In addition, Cuzco has cathedrals, a lovely center plaza (the ancient site of festivals, ritual sacrifices, executions, etc), ornately­carved balconies, red­tiled roofs, everywhere trees and shrubs are trimmed and groomed into shapes of animals, people, circles, "doughnuts", airplanes, ladders, etc, and the Quechua men in handsome ponchos and knitted cap with ear flaps, the women in beautiful dresses and hat with long braids down to their tailbones. Here we saw the finest weavings of our entire trip, both old and new. Fine natural colors, intricate designs. We went to a nearby Sunday market... took lots and lots of pictures... and bargained for some small weavings that will make into nice throw pillows and some long "belt" straps that we'll use for camera straps.

And from Cuzco, one visits Machu­Picchu; we figure that's one the two biggest tourist attractions in South America (the other is the Iguassu Falls). Machu­Picchu is the site of an Inca "village" high up on a mountain top; so precipitously located that it was never found by the destructive conquering Spanish. Through stories told by Indians, it was "discovered" in 1911, and excavations showed that it was likely a very important Inca city and possibly where the "Virgins of the Sun" fled from the invading Spaniards. Machu­Picchu is a 3 1/2­4 hour train ride from Cuzco... OR a 3­5 day hike along the ancient "Inca trail". The Inca civilization was one of extreme controls over all the people of the land. To help facilitate their necessary communications to maintain rigid control, stone roads were built connecting all the villages and cities... and the Inca Empire was immense! It included all of Peru, Ecuador, Bolivia, and northern Chile and Argentina. Parts of this ancient nca trail is still in quite good condition; so, of course, this is the way we chose to approach Machu­Picchu. We left Cuzco on the early morning train, but got off 2/3rds of the way to Machu­Picchu... with about 20 to 30 other backpackers (and high season is over!). A great adventure! It started spectacularly... First must cross the river, and we're up quite high (maybe 100 yards?). They've rigged the craziest crossing I've ever been on! There's a cable across... and a small platform hangs from that... just big enough for 4 people sitting back to back with feet dangling over. Then a man balances on 2 of the ropes that hold the platform, and he pulls us across by hand. From there I was glad to walk! We did it in 3 days quite comfortably. There are several ruins along the way, and two nights we camped in them. Crossed two passes... both very steep to 4200 meters and 3900 meters, respectively... on the second day. And it rained the latter half of that day and through most of the night. Although we'd hardly seen any other hikers that day, quite a few of us converged at the same place that night. In the morning, there was hardly anything dry... witness the hiker in long­johns and another in shorts despite the chilly morning. We met a lot of people on their "last hike". The way was muddy and slick... except where the old Inca trail stones gave good foothold, and we thanked the Incas. But then again... would we even be here if not due to them? We hiked long and hard that third day (joined by another Swede!), determined to get to Machu­Picchu and slightly beyond to where there are thermal baths and a dry! hotel. But the sun came out in the afternoon and began to dry things. We hiked on. The ground and bushes began to dry and eventually our shoes were less "sloshy". We'd had a distant glimpse at Machu­Picchu about mid­day, and we pushed on, knowing eventually the trail should lead there. Now it was down, down, down... steep and sometimes the hillside would slide away... pounding on the feet, jarring on the knees... down, down, down... and the trail was discouragingly taking us away from the direction of Macchu­Picchu. Eventually it turned and traversed back... about 2 hours more... along a precipitous edge sometimes crossed by 2 or 3 thin logs... through jungle­thick growth... around and around this mountain. Then we came to a long series of stone steps... high steps. Those Incas were supposedly short, so why such high steps? Up, up, up. Around a bend, and another long series of steps. I just stood at the bottom and looked up and up until I could have fallen over backwards! At the top this time was a stone gateway. Through the gateway... and behold!... What a sight! We were high above Machu­Picchu, and the sun getting low was really showing off the walls of that great ancient city! That sight was better any picture I'd ever seen of the place; much better than my expectations. We were on an adjoining mountain... actually Machu­Picchu sits on the high "saddle" of two mountains. From where we stood, their ancient stone road swept easily across and down... if there'd been a railing, we could have slid right into the midst of Machu­Picchu! (But it was still a long ways.) We started hiking down... and at about halfway, there were some more walls. Decided to spread out our tent and sleeping bags, etc to dry while there was still some sun, and we camped there that night, where we could watch the sun set and rise on Machu­Picchu.

Next morning we got to explore the ruins for several hours before the train­loads of tourists arrived. It was great. And truly, those ruins are the best we've seen... so many full walls still standing, sacrificial rocks, jails, temples, and the awesome terracing all around... all flowing over the top and "oozing" down the sides of these mountains... the Urubamba River winding far below... winding, winding, winding... amongst this incredibly 3­dimensional landscape.

We took the train back to Cuzco... all the way back. In all, we were in Cuzco and environs 11 days. A really picturesque area. But with all the tourists have also come thieves. We'd heard stories for months about the thieves throughout Peru... a real problem. We skipped Colombia because of the same problem there; but no way would we skip Peru... Just be very, very cautious. It's too bad to always be so paranoid of people because, for the most part, they are wonderful people. The trains and train stations have the worst reputation. ON one route, our reference book cautions "80% of travellers on this line are robbed". It's no small matter... and their means are clever and often "professional".

Did you by any chance notice where this letter is being written from?... Lima. We'd left here over 2 weeks ago and gone a long ways south towards Bolivia. Hadn't planned to come back 'til December, to fly home from here. But Lima is the capital of Peru and embassy is here. I regret very much... oh, so very, very much... having to tell you that I was victim of those cursed thieves. My precious passport is gone forever. The Consular told me it likely will be used in smuggling of drugs... and that it is even possible my name will be on a "wanted" list when I enter immigration. So they wanted and got a passport from me. My second lost passport, and this time getting a new one isn't as easy as last time. I've made application, but will have to wait until tomorrow while they run a security check on me. I expect no problems, but this is grim. All those wonderful visas... almost filled my passport. Oh, I'm so sad... so mad. I've cursed myself over and over; and know "what I should have done", but it only makes me feel worse. I've also run over in my mind exactly what I did do, and there was a wrong decision, obviously; but not one to be so ashamed of. I think I know when I was robbed... Can't be certain, because I didn't feel a thing. But in running back over the few minutes just before I realized the loss... We'd boarded our train and were looking for our seat numbers. Robert had located them and we were taking off our packs. Quite a few people in the aisles. One man went by and was being quite obnoxious to us about checking our seat numbers... we had to have seat numbers... and he continued walking on. I was distracted by him and had turned toward him, which put my left side to the aisle. Figure it was either him or he had an "accomplice". My belt pouch was sliced and my "pocket­pouch" taken. It's a hiking pouch, I usually carry small items I often want readily available while hiking. In repacking to leave all we could at the hotel while we hiked, this pouch was the only thing I was carrying on my person... so the most secure for my passport, so I mistakenly thought. Normally, all he would gave got was the sunglasses (the ones you found on the beach in Hawaii, Mom... now in Peru somewhere), sun screen, Kleenex,, chapstick, whistle, mirror, balloons. My watch, too... that one that came free with the order for carbon paper. I never wore it because kids were always swarming around to ask the time... they don't really want to know, they just like to harass the gringos and get a kick out of it when we speak (maybe it's our accent...?). So the thieves were rewarded by me... darn it all!... A grown adult man... no child of poverty. It makes me feel ill, but it's done. My paranoia grows and my caution multiplies.

So what can I say? I'm well and Robert's well. Now I want to change the subject. It took us two solid days on the bus to get here... exactly 48 hours. It's about the distance Seattle ­­> San Francisco, but the road isn't exactly the same quality. IN fact, the first 28­29 hours weren't even on paved road... After the rains, it was like a "washboard". Even my cheeks ache from bouncing and my teeth from gritting them to keep from biting my cheeks or tongue. Oooo... rough ride... And tomorrow afternoon we go back over almost the same route, but will cut off before Cuzco and continue south... to Puno (on Lake Titicaca) and then across to La Paz, Bolivia.

We've learned that Argentina has devalued its currency by 340%!... and it's now much cheaper for us travellers. So we'll quickly go through Bolivia... to Argentina... see the Iguassu Falls there on the border with Brazil. Then sweep through Buenos Aires and to the Lakes District from the Argentine side... and across to the Chilean side, up to Santiago (mail check), to the deserts in northern Chile (where no rain has ever been recorded), and back to Lima by December 10 or so. Whew! We're going to have to scramble. My mis­adventure has cost us about 4 days. *!u!!!*

(Robert)

To talk about something nicer... (this is Robert continuing)... thanks for all letters we received in Lima a few weeks ago ­ 16 of them and all very welcome!

On the way from Lima to Cuzco we stopped in Nazca. This is one of so many places in Peru of archeological interest. A few of you may already have heard of the "Nazca lines". These are giant lines carved in rock in the absolutely sterile Nazca desert about 3000 years ago. Their dimensions are staggering: Some are straight lines several kilometers long and others form giant triangles. There are many animal patterns like pelican, condor, monkey, whale, fish, other birds (with wing span exceeding 100 meters ­ 330 feet)... In fact, the figures are so large, that they can only truly be appreciated from an airplane. So for G20 each we got a 45­minute flight in a tiny aircraft. Without exaggeration this was the roughest flight any of us had been on and we were quite dizzy when we stepped out of the plane. Of course, it didn't help that we looked through a camera lens half of the time. But what we saw was really awesome: No just the above­mentioned patterns, but underlying these were lots of other not­so­clear sets of lines. A big area of the desert was literally criss­crossed by all these patterns and lines. And among these we could see traces of devastating floods. It is true that it is a desert, but nevertheless there can be torrential rains in January­February­March. Really amazing that the lines are so well preserved. Sitting in the aircraft we felt ­ like so many else ­ a surge of archeological curiosity. How could "primitive" (???) Indians standing on the ground construct absolutely straight lines several kilometers long? How could they make so perfect animal shapes? It must have taken enormous planning and calculations... Obviously, lots of theories have been put forth ­ some of the more exotic ones talk about landing areas for ships from outer space. Others infer that the Indians used hot­air balloons (burn marks and later pottery could support this theory). Or astronomical observation aids? Nobody knows for sure.

I have to try to convey some of my impressions of the "altiplano". This Spanish word literally means "high plain". At an elevation of about 4000 meters (13000 feet) it covers about one­third of Bolivia and most of south­eastern Peru. It is too high for cultivation, but is used extensively for grazing animals, mainly llamas. The altiplano is mainly covered by dry and sparse grass. It doesn't seem to get much rain, because it is very dry and dusty and looks extremely inhospitable. Nevertheless lots of small huts are to be seen, and we feel sorry for the few Indians who do get off the bus. What kind of life can they lead up here?

When we headed back to Lima, we left a city called Juliaca (close to Lake Titicaca) very early one morning. In this sprawling city of 40,000 people with an important railway station it is hard to grasp the altitude... 3850 meters (12800 feet). True, the tropical sun directly above our heads only heats the afternoon shadows (where they can be found) to 60oF (15oC) and frost can occur during any time of the year, but still... having spent one month at or above 3000 meters (10000 feet) we are sufficiently acclimatized not to be bothered by the thin air.

Leaving the city, the dust road climbed gently... 13000, 14000, 15000 feet... it was still a gentle climb up to a high pass.. there were grazing llamas right on top. What would you expect a pass of 4700 meters (15600 feet) to look like?... higher than any mountain in the continental U.S (more than twice as high as any mountain in Sweden)... we'd expect bold, steep, snow­covered mountains rising high above deep valleys with rushing streams... but not here. On the other side of the pass it was level... it is... it is a sand desert... certainly one of the highest plains in the world... a flat sand desert at 15600 feet. We drove through it for about half an hour, before we dropped slightly and the dry grass reappeared. But the road stayed at 14000 feet or above for 7.8 hours!

I'll finish here ­ Love Robert

(Surain)

Tuesday AM 27 October.

Ciao from me, too. We're going to go by the post office now to see if any of our mis­placed mail has perhaps found its way to the right slot. And then to the Embassy to see if they've decided to give me another passport. Love ­ Surain.

I'll add this postscript... Won't mail this until tomorrow.

Got my new passport without problem. They accepted my photo that I'd along (from the McConkey catalog). It's not exactly per their specs and I was worried I'd have to have new made... which would mean more money, and also I'm not looking my best (really scraggy hair!). Aren't we all a bit vain... and want a good photo in one's passport? The man at Immigration looked at it and said "Rita Hayworth". Of course, he didn't look at me and say "Rita Hayworth"!

Yes, after I was through at the Embassy, I had to go to the Peruvian immigration authorities... because my stamp and tourist card were lost with the passport and we had to make my being in Peru all legal. All went well there, and he graciously filled up one whole page of passport... My sixth passport! #Z3926446. Have to memorize a new number now.

Yes, feeling better today. All is going well, and we leave this afternoon for two more nights on the bus... ugh!

We checked the post office and found one more letter from Robert's mother. What a mess that "general delivery" is in. For instance, the "S"s are divide into perhaps 10 sections or more. While we look through the "Sand" section we find lots of "Sch" and "So" etc, It's a terrible mess! No telling where our missing mail is. Really maddening and sad and frustrating. If I could, I'd go through everything, but no way. Just hope La Paz is better organized... Most places do seem to be.

We're always glad to leave the cities and get to the country, where locals wear beautifully woven ponchos instead of these T­shirts that say "You're no bunny til' some bunny loves you", "I'll try anything once... and maybe even twice", "University of Houston... Massachusetts", "Supersonics"!!!... "Virginia is for lovers"... etc. They probably don't know what most of these mean!

Love ­ S R

[Letter 9]